Teflon on 40 taper holders

[carbidecraters]

I am experiencing some sticking of the tools in the spindle and am afraid that if we leave a tool in overnight and the next guy goes to make a tool change he will break off the bronze guides in the carraige. Would it be a bad idea to spray the taper down and wipe it off with a teflon spray?

[carbidecraters]

works great!

[ger21]

I don't know if it's the right thing to do, but when I get sticking with our router, I spray them with a little WD-40, wipe them dry, and they work fine after that. It's either that or replace them, which is probably the correct thing to do.

[carbidecraters]

Right, I used some LPS-2 with teflon which is a alternative to wd-40 and then wiped them off. I am going to make sure their is a rag with that stuff on it for each tool as it comes out of the machines

[PBMW]

Normally this is caused by a little water in the air...
I had the same problem with my Haas an dput an air dryer in the line , problem went away.
Jim

[HuFlungDung]

I had some trouble like this, with tools sticking, but our climate here is pretty dry. Only rarely do I get condensation in my air lines.

Anyways, after running the machine with some new toolholders, I noticed a bright rub mark at a certain place on the taper shank of the new tools. So I got going at that spot inside the spindle taper (near the spindle drive keys) with a hone stone and flattened out whatever invisible hump was there. That seemed to fix my problem.

[Scott_bob]

This is another issue that is solved when you have thru the spindle coolant. I am not completely sure if it is heat related, or just having a bit of lubrication from the coolant. Either way, tools don't seem to stick in the taper when coolant thru is on.
Tapers stay cleaner too. I'd sure like to come up with an upgrade to existing equipment for this coolant option. The real challenge is the swivel connector. I'd really like to add this to a CNC with 15k spindle RPM. The machine builder does not support this high RPM option with coolant thru...

[ctate2000]

You may want to blue the taper of the tool holder and then insert it into the spindle. Look for high spots and indications of out of round condition. Sometimes when you are making heavy cuts the taper can tighten up from the pressures. I have had problems in the past with the air cyclinder on top of the spindle. It is not actually a cylinder it is rectangular and has very large surface area. The piston is aluminum and will fatigue where the shaft is inserted and a minute crack will form causing the air to leak past during tool change. Once this occurs you will have problems with the tool sticking due to the loss of force from the cylinder. It can be hard to catch if you don't know to look for it. The fix is easy and the parts are about $35.00 if I remember correctly. Polishing the tool holder with scotchbrite of the fine verity will also help sticky tools. Buying low quality or used toolholders can also contribute.


Good Luck
CT

[Scott_bob]

ctate2000,

Isen't the "blue" you refer to called prussion blueing or something like that?

It's apperance changes depending on how thin or thick it ends up being after you release the tool...

.

[carbidecraters]

Mostly its about water in the lines. The water will carry rust with it into your air valves and cause th small brass plungers to stick and suddenly you've lost low or high range or your fadal isnt oiling anymore. We use syntheitc air tool oil and marvel to help this but have rebuilt the air valves a few times

[Paul_S]

At the shop where I work we have ten 40 taper Fadals. I have the operators use Lub Gel (Radio Shack) grease on the tapers. A light coating. (A heavy coading has build up. Which must be cleaned off.)

Super Lube teflon spray, just places too much grease with just one press. The grease from one press is more than enough grease for 21 holders.

WD-40, seems to work, BUT after awhile the sticking comes back. It is my understanding that WD-40 contains water as one of its ingredients.

If you have a source for die makers grease (lanolin) it too is an ideal product to prevent sticking of tapers. Super Lub teflon grease was just a substute I chose to use. (Now use Lub Gel, Radio Shack brand)

[Rockyr49]

2 things to check also. Not knowing what kind of machine you are talking about, check for proper tool knock out. The drawbar should actually hit the end of the retention knob. Check by holding a tool in place with the drawbar unclamped. Take a measurement from the tool flange to the face of the spindle. Then clamp the tool in and check the same dimension. There should be .015 to .020 difference. Also blue the tool and clamp it in. Use prussian blue or Dykem 107 high spot. Check for contact to the taper. Normal wear over time will cause bellmouthing. The large end gets larger. If the taper is worn and you are only contacting at the small end (50% or less) it can cause the tools to stick. I have fixed many of these over the last 15 years.
Rocky