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HEEELP..... Multicam z-access problem!

Bungi — Tue, 21 May 2013 15:41:35 GMT

Greetings....

We have been having a problem with our z-depth/control on our MultiCam 3000 router, I'm somewhat of a beginer so I will try not to sound too dumb...

Anyway our router is used mainly in sign production, cutting flat shapes from sheet materials (aluminum, plastic) etc. Lately the Z-access has been having fits, one minute it will not move at all and another there is no RPM's and it always cuts too deep into the spoiler board? I've check the code (Enroute3) and everything is fine, but when the files are run the bit will go 1/8" - 1/4" too deep into the boards, no matter what is set at the hand controller for max depth?

When the spindle will not plunge, I have to go into the file and change the plunge feed to 160in/min and it will run it then?

Couple days ago we ran a router file and same thing happened, went too deep, shut everything down re-booted, ran it again and worked perfect... thought we had a work-around, now not even that will work for us?

Most of the files we run were generated months ago and have work flawless dozens of times until a couple of weeks ago, could the operator have set some kind of offset at the hand control?

The operator has to fiddle with the Z-depth at the hand control before every file is run to keep it working and not to destroy the boards.

We have done everything, even changed the Z motor.... and don't get me started with MultiCams useless tech/support!

Loosing my mind... any body have an idea?

Thanks
Rick

consulta sore configuracion de controladora

ezequielfoam — Tue, 21 May 2013 15:31:21 GMT

hola a todos tengo una consulta
compr� una controladora como la del link y no entiendo para que sirven alguno de estos jump

Venta al por mayor de 3 ejes CNC TB6560 Stepper Motor Driver Board Board Display Mango mando a distancia SM523 @ CF, env�o gratis, $ 86.14-102.49/Set | DHgate

"current setting 100%, 75, 50, 25," esto le da mas fuerza a los motores???

"decay mode settings fast 25% 50% slow". para que sirve esto que cambios se tienn entre slow y fast ???

gracias

Cutting 2.5 and 3 inch wood?

troyerscnc — Tue, 21 May 2013 15:04:21 GMT

I am ganna be cuttin 2.5 and 3 inch hardwood and am wandering what kind of bits ull are using to cut that thick of wood?

New To cnc Routing. Part hold down? feed speeds?

troyerscnc — Tue, 21 May 2013 14:58:35 GMT

Hi. I purchased a used northwood router and am working at learnin how to run it. I amd havin problems when cutting 1.75 in thick wood in three passes it leaves lines like the material is shifting a little. It came with a 40 hp travani pump and i have it on a 3/4 in melamine template with tape and hole down to the table for vacum. Also i was wanderin wat speeds i shuld be going? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

Machine parts for quoting.

fly2devin — Tue, 21 May 2013 14:44:10 GMT

Hi all,

I have a few parts here I need quoted. Let me know if you're interested and I can send drawings and 3D models. I will need 10x of each.

Thanks,
Devin

FHGSXR-101-1.jpg GSXR-101.jpg URMPR-02.jpg URMPL-01.jpg

Attached Images

FHGSXR-101-1.jpg‎ (44.7 KB)
GSXR-101.jpg‎ (31.8 KB)
URMPR-02.jpg‎ (24.5 KB)
URMPL-01.jpg‎ (23.9 KB)

Need Help! I NEED MASTERCAM V9 SOFTWARE COST AND VENDOR NUMBER

selvavijay — Tue, 21 May 2013 13:49:00 GMT

HELLO FRIENDS,

IM LOOKING FOR MASTERCAM V9 SOFTWARE GENUIN PACK. HOW MUCH IT COST AND I NEED LOCAL VENDOR CONTACT NUMBER IN MUMBAI.

REGARDS
VIJAY

Need Help! Haas VF-2 Macro Code

sullivnc — Tue, 21 May 2013 13:40:04 GMT

Can anyone tell me what I'm doing wrong in the code below? It would be greatly appreciated.

(Input Variables)
#V1=3.
#V3=0.01
#V4=0.01
#V5=1
#V6=1
#V13=5.
#V14=0.1
#V15=.01
%
%
%
#V7=V6*(V4+V15) (Total saw travel 1)
#V8=V5*(V3+V15) (Total saw travel 2)
#V9=0-(V8/2) (Initial X1)
#V10=V7/2 (Initial Y1)
#V11=-V10 (Initial X2)
#V12=-V9 (Initial Y2)
%
#R1=V1
#R3=V3+V15
#R4=V4+V15
#R5=V5
#R6=V6
#R7=V7
#R8=V8
#R9=V9
#R10=V10
#R11=V11
#R12=V12
#R13=V13
#R14=V13/2
#R15=V14

(Start of Main Program)
G0 G17 G20 G40 G80 G90
M06 T1
G0 A0 G90
G56
G43 H56 M08
M03 S1500
X+R9 Y+R10
G0 Z+0.1

(Cutting)
#V30=0 (Initialize column counter)
M97 P10 (Cut left side of first column)
#:CUT.COL.RIGHT
M97 P11 (Cut right side of first column)
#V30=V30+1 (Increment column counter)
#IF V30 LT V5 THEN GOTO:CUT.COL.RIGHT
G90 A90 (Rotate 90 degrees to cut rows)
M60 (Lock rotary table)
X+R11 Y+R12
#V31=0 (Initialize row counter)
M97 P12 (Cut left side of first row)
#:CUT.ROW.RIGHT
M97 P13 (Cut right side of first row)
#V31=V31+1 (Increment row counter)
#IF V31 LT V6 THEN GOTO:CUT.ROW.RIGHT

(Finish Program)
G0 Z1. M09
G0 G28 G91 Z0 M05
G28 Y0
G90
M30

(Subprograms)
N10 (Column Cut)
G90
G0 Z+0.1
F+R14
G01 Z+R15
F+R13
G91 Y-R7
G90
G0 Z+0.1
M99

N11 (Go to next column & cut)
G0 G91
G91 Y+R7
X+R3
M97 P10
M99

N12 (Row Cut)
G90
G0 Z+0.1
F+R14
G01 Z+R15
F+R13
G91 Y-R8
G90
G0 Z+0.1
M99

N13 (Go to next row and cut)
G0 G91
Y+R8
X+R4
M97 P12
M99

Need Help! laser engraving and cutting black perspex, getting marks

kimlawler — Tue, 21 May 2013 13:24:22 GMT

Hello!

I'm new here, but have found some really helpful advice when browsing around here in the past.

I currently own a laser cutter similar to this one, LS3040 PRO Laser engraving and cutting machine [LS3040] - �2,450.00 : laser engraving machines laser cutting machines, HPC laser LTD, but with a bigger bed. I'm using lasercut 5.3.

Something I'm working on right now is an engraved and cut piece of 3mm black perspex.

I remove the protective layer from one side of the material, engrave at 190 speed, 15 power (sometimes less power). The engraving works fine, gives a great result, but then when it comes to cutting (6 speed, 100 power), due to there being no protective layer there because of engraving, heat marks are being left on the edges of the item.

Can anyone advise on how to avoid this?

WANT TO BUILD MILL. LOOKING FOR SUGGESTIONS

onlyinutah — Tue, 21 May 2013 12:48:27 GMT

I havent quite figured out the whole forums thing so please point me in the right direction if this is in the wrong place.

Im looking to build what I believe is a 3-axis mill for milling aluminum to a depth of 2-3 inches max on most pieces possibly a bit more. I am wanting to use this strictly for gunsmithing and making molds for composites. Im a certified composite technician and I understand the the composites part of what im wanting to do but want some questions answered that would save me some time from having to scour the internet for hours. I know everyone has their opinions but im asking more for facts!!! Here goes!!!

Most important question... Is it worth it? Is it worth building a mill? Can I get the same accuracy on a homemade mill as I would from one purchased?

Frame- If I wanted the most affordable yet durable frame what material would I use?

Spindle Motor- My goal is to cut Aluminum for composite molds and gunsmithing. What are the specs that I will need in a motor to get the power required to cut aluminum and to a depth of 2-3"

Accuracy- Im restating this because both composites and gunsmithing require accuracy, as far as I know. Is it possible to get accuracy to �.001" for gunsmithing with homemade CNC's

I know there are many other aspects to consider but I wanted to start with the end goal in mind. I believe these are some of the more important factors beyond other aspects.

My goal is to do this on a budget. So if it can be done I'm hoping to do it! Im shooting for a budget of <$1500. I know many people arent fans of Chinese products but I've been using them my whole adult life and wouldnt mind using their products for a second!

In addition, could someone show me, PM me some successful homemade CNC's that most likely would be able to accomplish what I have in mind. If its been done no need to reinvent it. Right??

Thanks for all the help!!!

The VIP customer project Update

Laurent_parti — Tue, 21 May 2013 12:34:50 GMT

Hi all,

I did have a special customer request for a CNC new project:

Here it is the update of the project:

:o

Need Help! Beginner needs help with "famous" TB6560

Roarkiller — Tue, 21 May 2013 12:30:35 GMT

I'm building a CNC router as part of my mech engineering curriculum. Sadly, the budget allocated is only $200, so I'm trying to skimp by using spare parts and cheap stuff.

The driver I'm using is the "famous" blue-board TB6560 3-axis driver. I've searched the web for weeks and kept coming back to the same settings described in fozztexx. The problem is that my motors are now in a locked position when it's turned on, and the motors don't move when I run a g-code, and I have no idea why.

Also, the motors get hot. As in SCALDING hot.

I know I got the coil ends right via a multimeter. But I don't know how to test if the problem is with the motors or drivers, or whether the settings are the problem. As embarrasing as it sounds, I'm quite weak in electrical engineering.

-My step motors are salvaged from a printer: Mitsumi M35SP-11NK and Minebea PM35S-048, if that helps.
-Power supply is 24V 3.5A

Need Help! 4AXIS STRATEGIE ROTARY MODEL ( NOT WRAPPED / NOT STRAIGHT MODEL )

shikhon — Tue, 21 May 2013 11:17:51 GMT

Hi every body
i have 4 axis machine XYZA axis , (the rotary axe along x axis )
i have a problem while doing rotary g codes with the following model style
1.jpg
i am new user with gibbscam , i need your help , which steps i must follow from A to Z
to finally have g codes for my stl model which is not straight along one line

Attached Images

1.jpg‎ (52.7 KB)

Newbie Need some advice!

go_fish — Tue, 21 May 2013 11:13:30 GMT

Hey Guys,

What a great little forum you have here! First time poster but ive been reading the boards for a little while.

My name is Ben, from Melbourne Australia! 24 years old and self taught on the lathe.

I was given a Zyto Lathe from my grandfather before he moved interstate. Its been a great little lathe until now. Ive been having problems with run out and general ware on the old girl!

Please if you can look past the mess that would be awesome!

Now I'm trying to decide if i should rebuild her or buy a new lathe. This is such a hard choice to make. I know that i wont get much change from $1000 if i buy a new one. But i also dont know if its going to be worth trying to rebuild her.

Currently she needs new head stock bushes and new gibs right round. The thing im worried about the most is the head stock bushes. Hope much would something like this cost to replace?

some more photos for you to view a get an idea of how old this old girl is.

Ive cleaned the lathe since i took these photos. Its sitting in bits on my work bench waiting for me to decide if i should re build it.

Cheers

Ben

Attached Images

8731306956_1f7a38d5b5_z.jpg‎ (160.8 KB)
8731307104_d7bf63f2cf_z.jpg‎ (126.0 KB)

Fanuc 11T

8ball1975 — Tue, 21 May 2013 09:41:24 GMT

Anyone know the M code for locking the spindle in fanuc 11T?

Or the button that will lock it? can't see it for the life of me..

can't get the collet chuck off and need to lock the spindle..

TIA

environment energy

JamesCordell — Tue, 21 May 2013 08:21:21 GMT

a report revealed by National Geographic says that a base camp up at some mid height is indulged into generating a big amount of environmental waste harming to the natural atmosphere of Mount Everest, in Nepal, to a great deal .... that same environmental misfortune was observed by the Seattle based climber who got so disturbed with the natural havoc that planned a bio gas project to turn that waste into energy... later that waste was carried away by the Sherpa to dump at far located place...