Need Help!- Is anyone willing to make me a spring loaded tool holder?

[djh82uk]

Well first test results:

I loaded it up, lowered the Z axis until the tip touched the pcb, lowered a bit more to take up some slack, then jogged in a straight line, lowered some more and jogged some more. The line depth was pretty damn uniform, there were some marks from where I stopped it and lowered it, but of course it would be moving when that occurs under normal use.

But sadly there is a problem, while trying to make a pcb, theres was too much play between the bit holder and the main body, i think i need a reamer to make sure the bore hole is near perfect, and then make the bit holder out of steel instead of aluminium, i think the bit holder needs to be thicker too, so does anyone know where I can get a 7mm chucking reamer (is that the same as a barrel lap?

At least the concept seems semi sound atm anyway, although i do have ideas to vastly improve things, I need my 4 jaw chuck to arrive and I need some reamers and a Die stock holder

DJH

[djh82uk]

Just had my 4-jaw chuck, Tailstock Die holder and new cutters arrive so i can try and make the new and improved version

DJH

[fatal-exception]

You need a zero backlash tool in the x/y directions. Make that perfect first, then worry about the z. A long reamed hole with a perfect fitting shaft is an easy way to do it. Leave the shaft untouched drill rod, ream a hole in the tool holder body to match. You can make the reamer out of the same sample of drill rod.

See the Machinists Bedside Reader for more info. (sorry, dont have a link)

[Larry83301]

Just a suggestion, slot the holder thru and use a spring pin instead of the screw and nut. That way there is nothing to fly off.

Looks like a good tool to have, when will you let us know the price? ? ?

Larry

[djh82uk]

Thanks for the advice guys

I have considered split pins, e-clips etc, all of which I may try if i can find the right sizes. as soon as I have found one that works well, i will be able to see how long they take to make and come up with a price.

The spring tensioner is a must tho, so im going to test that this weekend.

DJH

[offroadxx]

I WAS THINKING, WHY COULDN'T YOU USE SOMETHING ON THE LINE OF AN AUTOMATIC CENTER PUNCH THEORY. MAKE THE ENGRAVER TO HOLD A COLLET INSTEAD OF BEING THREADED. THEN HAVE IT ADJUSTABLE AT THE OTHER END FOR THE ENGRAVING PRESSURE THAT YOU DESIRE DEPENDING ON MATERIAL USED. JUST A THOUGHT.

[djh82uk]

Hiya

Thats an interesting idea, I will try and get one and see what I can do with it.

with regard my version, I have a set of reamers now so I hope to spend some time making a new version

DJH

[djh82uk]

Heya

Just an update, have been tidying up the workshop, has taken 3 days, so not got much done, ive made the new outer section, just gotta work on the inner now and give it a test, this one is someway between the one pictured, and the one I proposed.

DJH

[rayellam]

DJH,
what model miller are you using to do the PCB's? any good for moderate SMT stuff? any more photo's as examples?

Ray

[fatal-exception]

Here's a drawing for a graver I made a few years ago. It's ideas are based on the one described in 'The Machinists Bedside Reader'. The long reamed hole ensures that theres zero backlash at the cutting tip.

It's been a great tool for engraving plexiglass and aluminum.

I put a detail for a simple D reamer on the drawing too. It works like a charm. I don't bother tempering the tip after hardening, just leave it full hard.

Paul