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#1
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This is a small job, only two pieces, not very complicated. I'm looking to have an emblem made for my motorcycle tank (one piece on both sides, so two pieces). Here's what I need: Attached is a BMP (for viewing) and a DWG of the emblem. Specs are: - 5052 Aluminum (or whatever grade you may have around that will work fine), brushed. - 8.5" L x 1.5" W - .25" thick If the design can be almost completely routed out instead of being routed/etched into a rectangular block it would be preferred, but I will listen to whatever opinions you guys have for me... you are the masters! Thanks!!! Last edited by dallas4u; 01-13-2006 at 07:42 PM. Reason: Work has been assigned |
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#2
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| If you could get your text in the DWG into a closed polyline (not a spline) it will save you a LOT of money. There are small gaps and missing segments. How was this created? EDIT - on second look it's not all that bad. It would take about 15 minutes to close things up. I can hook you up if nobody quotes you - I am a bit short on time and would have to do this on a Sunday. I can cut it with the letters engraved or raised - what is your preference? Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. Last edited by mxtras; 01-12-2006 at 12:10 PM. |
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#3
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| Well, initially, I created it... no CAD experience at all. I used an outlining program to outline an SVG, then moved it to AutoCAD. I then had someone open the file in AutoCAD and smooth everything out... it was a LOT worse before this!!! Engraved or raised... I'm assuming engraved is designis machined into a block, where the block is still present when done, and raised is the areas around the design are machined leaving the design raised on the block? |
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#4
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| Yes - the difference is that the "embossed" look is a bit more appealing, I think. The engraved, or sunken look, is easier but I think it looks cheap for an emblem like you are describing. Either way, you will need to define a perimeter shape - maybe like an ellipse or a radiused rectangle or something. Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
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#6
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| Just to clarify - how much of the base do you want left? If 1/4" is used, I would probably say that you would leave maybe .040" - .060" (1-1.5MM). Is this what you are thinking? Also - there are a few features that force the use of a very small (.030") cutter. Running a cutter this small in aluminum is a challenge and is a slow process. The area I am talking about is the space between the bottom of the B and the top of the banner. Could this space be just a tad larger by making the banner smaller, or moving it? The next smallest space is about .090" - one portion of the L. This is with your drawing scaled to 8.625" long by 1.98" tall, by the way (drawing scale was off). I am not trying to change your design - I am just trying to help you remove some of the expense. What you have can be cut - no problem, but it's going to be on a machine for quite a while using a small cutter. I run a 25K RPM spindle and my guess is that with a .030" cutter, it will take about 3 hours to run each part. That's over half a day to make the order of 2 parts. I like this kind of stuff, but it gets expensive quick. Just trying to be up front. Maybe someone with a small hobby machine with a high speed spindle would like to take this project on? I think I may end up being pretty expensive for you on this. Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
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#7
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| Hmmm... well, I would be all for keeping costs down. I'd say adjust what is needed (size if needing to move the banner down a bit is fine), and the deepness of the cut is fine as well. If we are talking high cost here then I would love for others to chime in as well. I don't really know what the cost could end up being... I was hoping someone could tell me. |
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#8
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| I am sure others will chime in this evening. Welcome to the Zone, by the way. I noticed this is your first thread. Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
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#9
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| I also noticed that you originally wanted the letters to be completely cut out - not engraved or embossed on a block. You want it like the logo on a car - is this right? Kinda like bubble letters? Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
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#10
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| Yes, originally... but I'm not sure if that would be even more work/time. I don't mind the embossed block. I wasn't really sure what to expect, so it is a little refreshing to hear your comments. I've attached another DWG with the banner lowered a bit. I'm sure in my CAD wisdom I have somehow managed to screw up the lines a bit, but I think it looks ok. I'll reply back to your PM in a bit!!!! |
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#11
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| Well - I think I know what you are looking for - so I feel the urge to comment. The machined letters will have a very 'rigid' look - it may actually contrast with the font style, ya know? The font is very flowing and smooth, but the blockiness of the machining is going to add a bit of visual confusion, I think....unless the edges were rounded or the thinner material was used. BUT - then again - I am guessing as to what this is going to be used for...you said a gas tank, so I am thinking you want it smooth and classy - not big and clunky. There may be another way to get something like this and the cost would be comparable to what I already sent you. This would be to make an aluminum mold and then cast the letters from urethane or some other casting liquid. I am not sure how to get the metallic look, though. I could do black, green or blue right now - that's the extent of my urethane casting experience. The end result would be smooth, rounded and clean but it would have a plastic look - not shiny and metallic. If the mold was polished smooth, you could have some translucency - a pretty neat effect. Just some thoughts. Scott
__________________ Consistency is a good thing....unless you're consistently an idiot. |
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