Build Thread: Upgrading EMCO Compact 5 CNC to current technology

[oldraven]

I have a Compact5 CNC too.
http://mraven.com/Emco%205%20CNC/Emc...c%20lathe.html

It uses G-code.
There is a program called MFI or Mike's interface in that you can load your code (generated by the old Emco DOS program, check or edit it and send it to the machine (still in original form)

I have put on two new steppermotors, NEMA23 with a 6.35 millimeter axis.
They fit in the original holes and you can use the toothed wheel and belt.

Operating through Mach3 and a simple Chinese driver PCB.

I leave the original spindle motor for the time being and switch it on by hand.

It is indeed a tape reader on the front panel, mine does not work.

The tool changer operates on +10Volts forward motion and backwards/hold on +4Volts.
I control it with the blue FWD button and a digit 1 for moving one position, 2 for two positions etc. up to six.
You will need to have installed the DNC interface to respond to the FWD button.

Jos
Holland

I am looking to do the same thing with a EMCO Compact 5. I would like to ask you a few questions if you don"t mind?

As the machine is built (before conversion) by EMCO can it use G-code?

In the conversion do you control the speed of the spindle as "on and off" in the program and manually set the rpm outside the program?

Is that a tape reader on the panel?

Do the motors use standard screw hole locations? Can another motor be placed in the existing mounts?

You can pick up a EMCO Compact 5 tool changer on Ebay for about $250. It seems they rotate so many degrees and then go back a few degrees and lock in, just like a 4th axis.

Mike

[RotarySMP]

Why did you choose 100 ozin motors? High speed Keling 387 ozin motors only cost about $40 and would give you much faster rapids, assuming the drivers match them.

[ipmmiller]

Hi Chris, just found your build thread and i'd say if your going to retrofit a cnc5 that would be the one to do, early machine.Keep your DC spindle motor if possible ,its a great unit.If you hav'nt already you'll want to check and or polish the ball screws on it,i use an old shoe lace and some mothers mag polish followed by some acetone,do not oil the screws or acetone the ball nuts.Oil will capture chips and chips will enter the ball nut,no wipers on these,....not a fun day but if it happens you'll have to remove the screw while not allowing the nut to get anywhere near the end of the screw,if it comes off the balls come out and your SCREWED,put a zip tie,wax or something on the end of the screw to prevent this, now you can spend the afternoon working the nut back and forth cleaning chips off the threads as they come out until its smooth again...told ya..not a fun day .As far as steppers go i think 100oz will be more than enough, im still using the....25 year old..."weak" factory steppers,same as yours, on my f1 mill and i cut mild steel everyday and sometimes o1 tool steel and 304 stainless with no apparent loss of steps and it stays in spec all day.Hmmm...since there are so many of these machines still in service...ya think Emco knew what they were doing?My F1 was used in its "adult life" in a busy machine shop cutting cast iron pump parts all day if that tells you anything,of course these guys took correct care of it,sharp tools,skill,lube etc,(Mobil Vactra 2 reccomened).My thinking is really fast rapids do nothing in the home shop but wear your ballscrews etc. prematurely,these are rolled not precision ground and quite small,if something is going to break or "give" you want it to be the stepper,they're cheap compared to the ballscrew which is unobtainium..They'll last forever if taken care of and not overstressed or "whipped" by insane rapids.You'll be suprised how much work these machines are capable of with sharp tools and correct feeds and speeds and i'd reccomend insert tooling if you hav'nt looked yet, i've found tialn coatings to be the best on hard stuff, cuts stainless like butter with no flood needed, i just vacumn chips behind it.Although i've used the gold Tin coatings with success on the lathe and mill the variable helix endmills with Tialn coatings,a dark gray color coating, from Maritool turned the f1 mill into a monster,you truly do get what you pay for sometimes and you'll find a sharp cutting tool is THE most important part,without it your lathe is a hammer.Best of luck with your refit,let us know how it goes,Kevin

[KnacK]

Good evening Kevin,

Good points about the screws. Fortunately where I bought mine from it was kept in very good condition.

Unfortunately I have had other projects in front of it so it stands idle. The only thing I am lacking is building a power supply for the new BOB, driver board, and servos.

I'm hoping that after a buildout in the Man Cave(tm) to give me a dedicated metal working area, things will start to progress.

[ipmmiller]

Chris check out the Machmotion web site for a power supply,they sell a 24v
10w unit for $25.00 that might work for you, part num. MDR-10-24 .
It does take time to get this stuff working but its well worth it ,i just today saw the tables and spindle move on an Emco F1P production mill with the M1 Tronic control i've been restoring for the last couple years off and on.Bought it dead but all there,it needed alot of hard to find stuff but its really clean and nice,the mill looks like new.Should be a beast, the F1P and Compact 6 lathes have precision ground 12mm ballscrews with wipers as some have coolant pumps,closed loop 5 phase steppers with .0001 resolution,bigger Baumuller spindle motors which i think are 2hp. Cant wait to make some chips fly with this one, just have to climb the programming tree again....jeeez.Kevin