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Thread: Kflop for 3d printing

  1. #41
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    Default Re: Kflop for 3d printing

    Quote Originally Posted by TomKerekes View Post
    Hi Joanel,

    Thanks for the feedback.

    I'm not familiar with MATLAB and I don't have a copy. But Googling shows that it supports any .NET interface so it should be fairly simple. See here for an example:

    https://www.mathworks.com/help/matla...-assembly.html

    Our .NET assembly is called KMotion_dotNet.dll

    HTH
    Regards
    HelloTom,

    Thanks! This is what I needed. I didn't think it was going to be that simple. I talked to my friend about it and he said that he will buy a KFlop and a KStep to start playing with them. Like always, thank you so much for your help and I'll let you know if I have other concerns.

    Regards,
    Joanel



  2. #42
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    Default Re: Kflop for 3d printing

    Hi Joanel,

    If your friend is successful please suggest he posts a simple example of what it took to interface.KFLOP to MATLAB.

    Thanks!

    Regards
    TK http://dynomotion.com


  3. #43
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    Default Re: Kflop for 3d printing

    Quote Originally Posted by TomKerekes View Post
    Hi Joanel, If your friend is successful please suggest he posts a simple example of what it took to interface.KFLOP to MATLAB. Thanks!
    Hey tom,

    OF course! He looked at it and said that it should be easy to interface KFLOP with MATLAB, so I'll post an example as soon as he confirms that is perfectly working.

    Sorry for the inconvenience, but I have another questions. I made a control box for all the components that I'm using, but after wiring it for some reason my y-axis (channel 1) is not working properly. All the other axises seem to be working fine, but the motor connected to channel 1 can't move the structure. You can hear the motor runing, but the axis doesn't move. I thought it was the motor, so I swapped the motors between channel 0 and channel 1 and it was still doing it with the x-axis motor. I thought it was due to the soldering that I had done between the wire and the pannel connector, but I changed those with the wires from another axis and it was still hapening. I'm thinking that it might be the KStep, but I'm not completely sure. I haven't been able to test it further yet, but what do you think that might be causing the problem? I might have an idea of what it might be, but I wanted to ask you first since you have way more experience than me.

    Also, is there a way to make the y-axis work with channels 3-7? I tried adjusting the parameters in the "config & Flash screen" for channel 4 so that it works with the y-axis, but it wasn't working when I tried testing it on the "Step Response" window. I looked through the documentation for the KStep, but I couldn't find anything suggesting that you can do so. I'm really sorry for asking all these questions and thank you so much for everything.

    Thanks,
    Joanel Vasquez



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    Default Re: Kflop for 3d printing

    Hi Joanel,

    If the stepping motor just vibrates and doesn't move then usually only one of the two coils are being driven properly. You might power down and use an ohm meter right at KStep Outputs and check each output coil for the proper resistance. Also there should be no continuity (>100Kohms) from each coil to any of your grounds or to any of the other coils.

    The simplest way to change KFLOP Axis #1 to use Step/Dir generator #3 (to drive KStep Output #3). Would be to change the OutputChan0 parameter from 1 to 3.

    You might read this article:

    http://www.dynomotion.com/wiki/index...nnels_Channels

    HTH
    Regards

    Regards
    TK http://dynomotion.com


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    Default Re: Kflop for 3d printing

    Quote Originally Posted by TomKerekes View Post
    Hi Joanel,

    If the stepping motor just vibrates and doesn't move then usually only one of the two coils are being driven properly. You might power down and use an ohm meter right at KStep Outputs and check each output coil for the proper resistance. Also there should be no continuity (>100Kohms) from each coil to any of your grounds or to any of the other coils.

    The simplest way to change KFLOP Axis #1 to use Step/Dir generator #3 (to drive KStep Output #3). Would be to change the OutputChan0 parameter from 1 to 3.

    You might read this article:

    Channels Channels Channels - Dynomotion

    HTH
    Regards
    HelloTom,

    Sorry for the late reply, but I couldn't work on my project until now. Happy New Year and I hope everything has been well with you. I tested J2 through J5 on both KSteps with a multi-meter:
    1- For the board that is giving me problems with the y-axis(J3), all the coils seem to display about 10.56 MOhms when tested between all of them, and with ground from J1 they displayed 0 MOhms,
    2- When I tested the second KStep, all the coils displayed about 6.4 MOhms when tested between all of them, and with ground from J1 they displayed about 3.3 MOhms.

    I don't know why the resistance is so different between the KSteps. I also checked the second board separately, and J3 is working perfectly fine, so I'm going to be using this board for my 4 main axis for now. If the resistance throughout the board were the same, then what could be the problem with J3 on the first KStep? It's really weird because all the other channels are working fine. I'm really sorry for all the inconvenience and thanks for everything.

    Thanks,'
    Joanel Vasquez



  6. #46
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    Default Re: Kflop for 3d printing

    Hi Joanel,

    I'm not sure what 0MOhms means. Is that what your meter reads for infinite ohms? Or is it a short 0 ohms? With your meter leads open and shorted what does your meter display? I suppose anything less than 500000 ohms might read 0 on a megohm scale. Open circuits can read various values caused by leakage, moisture, etc. That doesn't necessarily indicate a problem.

    I was intending for you to check with KStep connected to the motors (and with power off). Or on the connectors unplugged from KStep. That way the coils should read the motor coil resistance of maybe several ohms (whatever the Motor specs are). That would basically check the wiring and motor coils for continuity and shorts.

    It sounds like you measured KStep with the cables disconnected.

    I don't understand what you mean by 2nd board. Is that the "good" or "bad" board?

    Regards

    Regards
    TK http://dynomotion.com


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    Default Re: Kflop for 3d printing

    Quote Originally Posted by TomKerekes View Post
    Hi Joanel,

    I'm not sure what 0MOhms means. Is that what your meter reads for infinite ohms? Or is it a short 0 ohms? With your meter leads open and shorted what does your meter display? I suppose anything less than 500000 ohms might read 0 on a megohm scale. Open circuits can read various values caused by leakage, moisture, etc. That doesn't necessarily indicate a problem.

    I was intending for you to check with KStep connected to the motors (and with power off). Or on the connectors unplugged from KStep. That way the coils should read the motor coil resistance of maybe several ohms (whatever the Motor specs are). That would basically check the wiring and motor coils for continuity and shorts.

    It sounds like you measured KStep with the cables disconnected.

    I don't understand what you mean by 2nd board. Is that the "good" or "bad" board?

    Regards
    HelloTom,

    I used a fluke 189 true rms multimeter (http://www.tmgtestequipment.com.au/s.../FLUKE_189.jpg) to measure the resistance. It ranges from 0 Ohms to 500 Megohms. I might have read it wrong and it probably was 0L, which does mean infinite ohms. I also shorted the leads and it displayed 0.0 Ohms.

    I checked the resistance with the motor connected and the resistance between A+ and A- was 2.4 ohms. The same for the resistance between B+ and B-. The resistance between all the other coils were about about 6.5 Megohms.

    Sorry for not being clear enough, but that's the good board. The second board that I checked was the good board. Sorry for the inconvenience!

    Thanks,
    Joanel Vasquez



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