NEW BUILD / Dynatorch Upgrade

[magma-joe]

WSS, I fabricate alot of one off parts for custom cars. It is always something different. Being in the same situation as you with no CNC experience a few years back, you will soon realize that having the CNC plasma is just part of the total picture. You must take the idea of what you want to make and have the machine cut it. This will require some CAD software to draw the part, and some CAM software to convert the drawing to G code instructions to tell the machine what moves to make.

Many parts are easy to draw, perhaps a square or round shape with some bolt holes. But when you encounter a part that is not one of your basic shapes and difficult to draw in a CAD program, you may want to consider tracing it on a piece of paper or hand drawing it. You then can scan it into a computer and run it through a raster to vector converter program. A vector drawing can then be converted to G code instructions for the machine to read. There are different programs out there to accomplish this.

I know that Edwardo uses Corel Draw. When I purchased the Dynatorch We-cim program it came with Arbor Image Cutting Shop software included. Here is a video of what it does.
http://www.arborimage.com/csv2_mov.htm

Just to give you an idea I have included a picture of an air scoop part I made from a template cut out of card board. It is .080 aluminum. I traced it on a large piece of paper and took it to my Office max store as it was to large for my scanner, had them scan it to a Tiff format and save it on my thumdrive. I then modifyed it a little and converted it in Cutting Shop to a DXF file. Also included is a picture of a fan shroud and a part I made to box the rear frame on a 49 Chevy P/U. I used the Dynatorch to cut the holes for back up lights as well as the fan shroud.

Support from the manufacturer and networking with others means everything when you are getting up to speed. What application do you use the plate you are cutting for? Sounds like some serious stuff? Any way, time to work on the upgrade!

[magma-joe]

Well did'nt get as much done as I wanted today, to many unexpected fires to put out. I finished the fixture to hold the gantry to the mill table. Since the gantry is 2" wider than the table I made 2 base plates out of 1 1/4" thick "aluminum to hold the gantry to square the ends and drill / tap all the holes.

I am using a piece of 6 x 6 aluminum angle on each end as reinforcement and a surface to mount the 1/2" side plates to. Everything will be bolted with countersink bolts. I have a nice straight piece of 3 x 12 aluminum channel and want it to stay that way so there won't be any welding. The angle will be underneath and overlap the ends of the channel.

[WSS]

Magma-joe,
judging by the pictures in your previous post, you have one of those jobs were you get paid to play! I say that only half joking, as one is never really good at what they do unless they enjoy it. Your work must be satisfying to see it to completion.

I checked out the cutting shop video and that is going to be mandatory I think. My wife is a Photographer and photoshop instructor and has a bunch of tricks to turn images into line drawings. I will post an example later when I have a chance to get on my Mac and work one up.

The parts we work on are usually ground engaging tools. Or parts for rock crushers. We impregnate tungsten-carbide grit (WC) into the wear surfaces for longer wear. Most of the parts are big and bigger!. Attached are some pics of the work I did on Saturday.

At least you got a start! Now you have the plan in your mind so next time you get a chance it will roll a little smoother. Your gantry will look good and the "no welding" will keep it true for sure. I have not done much aluminum, but I have actually seen it visibly twist as a guy was welding. I look forward to seeing the progress!

Tommy
WSS

[morvaman]

Magma-joe love your work. i can see you're getting alot out off your machine with those one off car parts. your gantry is coming along nice can't wait to see it in opperation. good luck

[magma-joe]

WSS,
I worked in the mining industry for 10 years so I can certainly appreciate the products you produce. I still watch the price of metals and have noticed lately they have rebounded nicely. With the economy the way it is this is good news. What process do you use to (impregnate) the surface of the metal. Is this a submerged arc? I would be curious to see your image to line drawings? I have heard you can do this with jpeg pictures. Would be nice learn more. Please post when you have time.

Morvaman,
Thanks for the kind words. Yes I do enjoy using the Dynatorch. The upgrade will definitely expand my capabilities. I will be curious to see your dual drop design also. Seems there is always something to learn here on the zone. Perhaps after I see WSS's oxy set up I might have to try that to. My Dynatorch was my first CNC. I enjoyed it so much I also recently purchased a CNC knee mill.

[WSS]

magma-joe,
We use a true mig spray to transfer the arc and deposit the TC using a magnetic feeder into the liquid. A little filler wire is used but it is mostly the molten surface used as the binder for the TC. You can control the carbon migration with the amount of volts being output by the CV power supply. TC has a very high melting point so it holds most of it's shape even at the bottom of the puddle. Submerged arc brings back a lot of memories, both my grandfather and dad did quite a bit of submerged arc welding building up wear parts on dozer undercarriages.

I did a real quick job on your gantry clamped to your mill, I will do a video and post it a bit later. The quick version is: turning the image into a grayscale (1) then duplicating the layer (2), inverting the top layer (3), then changing the layer blend mode to "exclusion" on the bottom layer (4), changing the layer blend mode to "difference" on the top layer (5). Now you should have a black image, use your arrow keys (with top layer active) to "nudge" the top layer (6). Each tap of the arrow keys will give or take from the effect, play with it to get the detail you want. Now you have a black background with white details. When you like the contrast, flatten the image (7) and "invert" the image (8). You will now have a line drawing that can be exported. If you have PS-CS3 extended, there are many more export choices. I did this on an older version on my laptop (CS), so I will post it as a jpg.

I am missing something here, it did work but it feels like I missed something. I will check my notes or ask my wife how she does it. She uses it to drop on top of an original copy of the layer (16bit color) to give a dimensional look. It makes an ordinary photo jump at you.

Good luck, PS is a lot of fun and goes on forever. Let me know if it works.

WSS

Edit, I remembered what it was, after the previous steps: open "levels", play with the sliders and watch the contrast change. Click OK when you like it. If the white seems to turn dark (gray), use SELECT>COLOR RANGE and eyedrop (sample) the "gray" and click ok. You will see the marching ants showing the selection. Go to EDIT>CUT, and the gray will disappear. You will have a black and white again!

[magma-joe]

WSS, it sounds like you have your (I'll call it hard facing) process dialed in. A three generation American business is a wonderful thing. You don't see many of these around but the ones that are do just fine no matter what the economic conditions are. I have a great deal of respect for them.

The line drawing is very interesting. However I'm alittle confused about the program? What program are you using? PS-CS3, CS? I know the hardest thing to convert is a jpeg photograph. I have only played breifly with a jpeg image in Cutting Shop and have heard others talk about the difficulty in converting them also. Perhaps its like anything else and just requires time. I would love to see the video. Thanks

I plan to get a little work in on the table today, I'll try to get some pics later.

[WSS]

magma-joe, sorry about that. I should have said PhotoShop! The program I used is Adobe's Photoshop CS (creative suite), when they update they go by CS2, CS3 and so far up to CS4. To make it even more confusing, in CS3 they added an extended version that does more file conversions, specifically for forensic work. Corel may be able to do layer blend modes, and so might PhotoShop Elements (Adobe's light version of PS and considerably less money). The blend mode of the layers is the key. It can be any photo file type, RAW, jpg, tiff psd. But generally you will export as a jpg. I hope that helps

Lets see some progress pics! I have decided to go with a water table insert. After I get a few hours of running under my belt, I will start the insert build. After reading the link you posted for the victory machine, I can see the advantages. Hope your time spent today was fruitful.
WSS

[magma-joe]

WSS, That is very interesting information on Photo Shop. I would love to see your video when you have time. I have discovered that the quicker you can go from idea to finished part on your table, the more money you can make. I also like the thought being able to do things your competitors can't. The competition is definitly increasing out there as the economy sinks.

The pics will have to wait another day. Just about the time I was getting started on my gantry my wife called and informed me she got layed off from her job. She was quite upset. I'm going to try again today make some headway on the gantry.

[WSS]

magma-joe, nobody wants to get those type of calls! Sorry to hear that.

You are right on the mark. The quicker and more stuff you can get in your customers hands the better. They tend to call you back first and not shop around too much.

I found a Victor MT310 machine torch w/acetylene mixer that can also use LP on ebay today. It is a good price and new if anyone is interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Victor-MT310-Tra...d=p3286.c0.m14

These are probably $400usd from your welding supply. Would be perfect for CNC.

Cheers!
WSS

[magma-joe]

WSS, well I made a little headway today. I got the gantry ends machined and the 6 x 6 angle notched and one end installed with the first two 3/8 countersink bolts. Its probably overkill however since it's going to be a dual drop I want to be sure it is as rigid as possible. The side trucks will be 1/2" 6061 aluminum. I will fab some different motor mount plates as the existing Dynatorch ones won't work. Here is a couple of pics so you can get the idea. It will look something like the gantry inthe 3rd picture.

[WSS]

magma-joe,
how will you mount the drops? Will it be V-rails on both sides or just the one. The V-rail side with the floating cam followers underneath is pretty clever. Can you incorporate that on both sides? The gantry looks stout enough to put an air drill head if you wanted. I like over built. You only complain about over built once (when your building it!).

I am curious about the dual drop, It would be a nice feature. Will you keep the same water table?

WSS