"Dynatorch users"

[edwardpic]

Magma,
The manual I have has alot of revision lines, as in replace this, put picture here, changed must update. Also the legend does not match the pages. When you open the help file and scroll to machine settings, they are very different, and the software I have has more options then the manual under machine setup has. If I could get the machine running re: gantry move during the setup, I would be a little happier. I am still waiting on the hard stops that didnt come with the machine to arrive. I dont think the gantry was run before shipping, it definately would not have slid along the X on this table, I had to shim the drop side plate for it to move more then 6".
Today is a new day, and I am sure Dyna will give me the info needed to start to use the machine. Lets see what today brings.

Ed

[bossfrog]

Ed:
Greg had told me to call Leon when ready to start the machine for the first time - Leon walked me through all the proper setups (yes they are different than the manual) and it fired up no problem. I have his number if you need it. Just a crazy thought, do you have your controller box powered up and on? I think that their software guru Leon gets so buried in questions that the manual documentation lags behind.

[Dynatorch_Greg]

Hello all,
To answer Magma Joes question about the software helpfiles: No the hardcopy of the manual is NOT up to date. Our software developer , Mike is always adding updates and new features to the software. To keep the manual up to date we would need a full time writer. What we are talking about doing is keeping an up to date downloadable manual on our website. It will be available very soon. Anybody who has version 3202xp or any of the versions after that has the updated help files. The thing is most of our updates and all of our new features are because of customer generated ideas. If there is a little something you would like to have in the software , some type of feature , tell me. We can discuss it here and I will pass the word on to Mike and he will see what he can do. Share your ideas with me people,I want to make our product as customer friendly as possible and I think this is a great forum to do so.Thanks Guys
Greg

[edwardpic]

Greg,
Thank you very much for getting the machine working with me this morning. I had a few problems with collition, but changed the SP and it seemed to help, also had the wrong tip in the torch. I need to order some 40 amp tips, all I have here is 60.
steel cuts good, but had problems with losing the arc on aluminum, I was trying to cut 3/16 aluminum and lost the arc, but the gantry still moved. Guess settings for 3/16 and 1/4 aluminum are precise, if you have a solutuion please send, or post them in here like we talked about earlier.
Thanks again for the help!!!!!!
Ed

[edwardpic]

UPDATE:
Cut alot of parts out of 3/16 mild steel. Then cut a small sign out of 3/16 aluminum, only had a couple problems with diving on the aluminum, but messed with it and got a real nice cut and barely any dross.
Needless to say I was at the shop late cutting parts, damn how time flys when having fun. After a rocky start I am definately happy with the machine and especially want to send a Big Thanks to Greg and Walt for all their help.
Tomorrow starts the parts cutting for my company, probably be doing the 16-14 and 12 gauge stuff. My order of 5x10 steel sheets arrived about 5.
Question: What size are you guys using for your material slats? Remember I dont have the air table, I used 3/16 and I think that was a little too thick really seemed to effect the cuts/dross when passing over them.
Thanks all,
Ed

[PlasmaGuy]

Edward,

10 ga. x 3" I buy a 5x10 sheet and shear them up. My table is set on 3" centers and this works OK.

Sounds like your system is moving along great!

Tom

[edwardpic]

Tom,
Thats what I did and sheared mine at 4". Just thought they might be too thick because thats where the larger "clumps" of dross are.

Ed

[PlasmaGuy]

The dross chunks are a part of the headache. I keep a chipping hammer on the table and clean before the start of the project.

[magma-joe]

Edwardpic, I have heard others complain of dross build up on the slats as well as the change in the quality of the cut as it passes over the slat. I have cut 1" high points in my slats spaced 6" apart and staggered. My friend with the plasma cam had worked around anouther cnc plasma before getting his plasmacam which comes with pointed slats. He said the points made a big difference and to be sure to try them on my table that I built. The plasmacam software even shows the table points in the Cad part of the software. When his points ware off he he has some 1" by 3" pieces he cut with a slot in the middle and a point on the end that drops in place on the slat with the worn point . Seems to work good for him. Once my table is up and running I can give some more feedback. Keep us updated on your progress. Same for Bossfrog, and where is scorpion?

[edwardpic]

Magma,
Havent heard much from Scorpion. I just ordered some 1/4 steel and have a small peice of 3/8 id like to try. Have any settings for that thickness? Do you ever use the 60 amp tip with the PM 1000? I am going to the welding supply and get some 40 amp tips in about an hour. That should work better for the 3/16 i cut last night.

Ed

[bossfrog]

I have some 40A tips that I bought for 10 ga, but haven't used them yet. Hypertherm recommends the 60A tip for 3/16". The 3/16" (7ga) I have cut so far worked pretty well with the 60A tips at about 142-145THC, .056 offset, and around 90-100ipm. Lots of slag on curvy parts, hardly any on straight cuts, but a twisted wire wheel takes it right off.

I have not used the Dynatorch as much as would have liked so far - remember I eat consumables very quickly. Will probably order the Eaton refrigerated air dryer that kcir recommended, and hopefully will increase my consumable life. I am ready to start making my own production parts, as purchased plasma parts supply is getting low now. Also plan to make some artsy patterns out of 14ga with the fine cuts, if I can make them last more than 10 minutes.

I think the idea of having points on the slats is good - I have some problems when a straight line falls right on a slat. I made a scraper about a foot wide with a long handle, and knock off slag before starting a new sheet. On small parts, I could see the points as being a problem.

[edwardpic]

Yea, having it there and burning up tips can get frustrating. I only wasted one tip so far thats because of a crash on the first run. Since then Ive cut probably 20 parts out of 14G and the tip is holding up. I do use a tip cleaner from my Oxy torch to keep the hole round, and also used some tip spray like I do on my welder, the thicker dip in clogs the holes, but the spray keeps the splatter from sticking to the nozzle.
I ended up using the ref dryer on my main line for the whole shop, and used a Devilbiss clean air system for my plasma. Granted it does more the the ref system, and cost me $522 from my paint supply house. Nice thing is that every morning when I turn the air on it automatically drains the water out. This is good because I am lazy about that stuff.

Ed