Dyna Myte 4400 No.2 retrofit

[vintageracer]

I removed the existing back splash panels and trimmed the clear shower curtain to fit the contours of the column and base. I then used a couple of magnets to hold it in place.



I ended up removing the ATC since is was non functional at this point which made it alot easier to fit the curtains and make them splash proof.



Timothy

[vintageracer]

Originally the splash guards had an angled bottom that funneled the coolant and chips back into the plinth and down into the coolant tank. Since this section didn't extend all the way to the front, I had a gap with the new curtain enclosure. So I removed those pieces too and made up some side trays to catch all the coolant and chips and angled it to the front to make chip scooping easier.



Now that everything was nice and square, the curtains hung down inside the trays and the chips were contained to the machine. Since this was just a quick test and not really made to be permanent, I just drilled a 3/16" hole in the corner of the tray to let the coolant drain out into some buckets.
I'll add a proper fitting and some tubes to drain it right back into the 'new' coolant tank that I'll be fabricating later.



Timothy

[2ferrous]

OK, I fixed all the broken links to the pictures and am now ready to post some more of the continuing upgrades.

Timothy

[Fastest1]

A name change?

[2ferrous]

The shower curtain was a good quick fix but the main plan was to build a complete enclosure for it. The first step was to design and install the back splash on either side of the column. This would stop the chips and coolant from exiting out the back every time I blew off the work piece and vises.



I used 14ga sheet steel to form the panels and gave them a 1" lip for strength. I had to hand contour the lower edge of the panel around the base so it would fit nicely.



Timothy

PS. Yes, a name change. I wanted something a little more machinist like.

[2ferrous]

Next up while I finished the design of the enclosure was to do something about the coolant delivery. As handy as those jointed coolant nozzles are, I hate the fact that every time you get a stringer from a drilling cycle, the nozzle(s) are knocked out of the way. You can image the damage if the next tool is an endmill and there's no coolant supplied to the cutting edge....

I went to the hardware store and picked up two brass barbs and a length of 1/4" copper tubing. Total cost $6.00. I machined off the barbs and drilled a 1/4" through hole in the lathe and then just soldered a 12" piece of copper tube into the brass fitting. After they cooled down a bit, I installed them in the existing ports with a bit of Teflon tape and then just bent them using one of those small hand tube benders.



I had the two coolant tubes point in slightly different spots to allow for different length cutters.



To date, this setup works perfect. The coolant has a more precise stream to the cutting edge and nothing has knocked them out of alignment.

Timothy

[2ferrous]

The design of the new enclosure complete and all the dimensions finalized, I ordered all the 14ga panels from a local sheet metal shop. All the panels have a 1in lip which allow for nesting to make sure coolant doesn't seep out the seams together and make it easy to bolt together.

After picking up the panels, I drilled some holes and put it together.



Everything went together perfectly and other than forgetting to order the front doors header panel it looks great. And it connected with the previously made back panels perfectly too.



Timothy

[skullworks]

Just was wondering how much all the Steel cost for the enclosure, and if you plan on re-mounting the ATC?

[2ferrous]

The total cost for the 14ga steel panels was around $400.00. That includes the two rear panels, two side panels, two roof panels, two front panels and the two odd sized center panels. It doesn't include fasteners or the labor to have the windows waterjet cut into them. (future update)
As mentioned, I forgot to have the door header panel made. That will be another $30 or $40.
The side trays that catch the chips and coolant I made out of spare 10ga that I had around the shop. Thats why they aren't the correct width. They were more of a test anyway to see if my idea would work. Which it sort of did, but scooping the chips every morning is a bother. Plan for an auger system are in the works.

Yes, the ATC will be reinstalled at a later date. I'm converting the arm movement and the pull stud release to pneumatics and connecting the carousel to the fourth axis of the Gecko G540.

Timothy

[2ferrous]

Since the doors are out at the waterjet shop getting windows cut into them and I haven't ordered the parts for the door track yet, I made a quick fix to get the mill up and running again.



I clamped a piece of 1-1/4" tubing across the top and hung two pieces of plexiglass sheet. I used some rings I picked up at the hardware store and a little bit of copper wire. A touch of grease make everything slide smoothly.



Surprisingly it works very well. So far nothing has made it past the 'doors' and access is quick and easy.

Timothy

[2ferrous]

As previously mentioned, I had the coolant draining from the two side trays into buckets which I would dump back in when I heard the pump starting to starve.
To be honest, this was a real pain in the a$$ and I should have done something about it alot earlier. So I spent a day, disassembled the enclosure and the side trays and fixed the 'problem'.

I opened up the existing drain hole and welded in a 1/2" tube in both trays. Then I drilled 1/2" holes in the upper section of the coolant tank and slid a 1/2" tube in so a inch or so stuck out. I connected the drain tube to the coolant tank tube with some vinyl hose and now the coolant drains directly back into the tank.



Now the front of the machine looks clean and organized and I don't have to worry about running out of coolant during a cut.



Timothy

[JHCHOPPERS]

Timothy,

Please update your picture links when you can. I am very interested in learning more about your machine.

Thanks,
JH