Shop wiring

[Al_The_Man]

I have distinct dislike of wire nuts, they were banned in the UK a long time ago.
If I have a few conductors to be terminated that large, I usually use a terminal block, in the case of grounds you can get common ground buss bar as is used in panels, neat, safe and efficient.
Especially grounding items such as welders.
Al.

[will gilmore]

Are you recommending this style of terminal block? I've used these in electronics projects but it is ok for distribution?

Or this looks like it would work for grounding:


What are the professionals using?

[underthetire]

Originally Posted by will gilmore I've never heard anything about accounting for bends in the conduit. Do you have any more information on that?

it's all in the NFPA 70E handbook. Not sure if its available on line or not. The book I have is about 4" thick. It all boils down to more bends= larger conduit for the same size wire, if your close to the fill capacity anyways. Just like you cant run SO cord or romex through conduit, its all about heat dissipation on the conductors.

[Al_The_Man]

Originally Posted by will gilmore Are you recommending this style of terminal block? I've used these in electronics projects but it is ok for distribution? Or this looks like it would work for grounding: What are the professionals using?

That's the type of ground bar or a variation, the live terminal block is similar but has an insulated mounting.
Al.

[cheetahcnc]

"Ugly's" has a good condensed code book, with most of your answers for a few bucks. I think I even saw it at H' Depot. As far as running your conduit, there are other options. I got the 4x4 inch trough with the flip top lid for the bulk of the wiring out of a new three phase service. Ran it down the middle of the shop. This way, drops and future changes are easier.

Jim

[will gilmore]

Originally Posted by Al_The_Man That's the type of ground bar or a variation, the live terminal block is similar but has an insulated mounting. Al.

Can you post a link of what you are thinking about?

[Al_The_Man]

The Ground bar is similar to what you would have in any distribution panel.
For power there are these.
http://www.automationdirect.com/stat...edisonepdb.pdf
http://www.weidmuller.ca/system/file...ion_Blocks.pdf
Al.

[will gilmore]

Ah yes. I have seen those before. Thanks.

[will gilmore]

Ok. I think this is really my last question:
My Tree originally had three hot wires coming in plus a ground. In side the cabinet there is a 240/120 transformer to power some of the components (spindle speed motor, coolant/lube pumps, light, etc).

1. Can I remove the transformer and bring in a neutral to get 120V into the cabinet?

2. Does the neutral need to be broken at the disconnect? My reading of the code says it does not because it is a grounded conductor.

Thanks again.

Will

[LeeWay]

I have been using this type connector in my shop.
McMaster-Carr

I really like these. I too have a dislike for wire nuts.

I also chose to run the blue flex conduit with the plug in style connectors for all my lighting. That makes short wok of it.

I am using all 3/4" conduit on the walls, but almost went to 1". It would have been better I think.

[will gilmore]

Originally Posted by LeeWay I have been using this type connector in my shop. McMaster-Carr I really like these. I too have a dislike for wire nuts. I also chose to run the blue flex conduit with the plug in style connectors for all my lighting. That makes short wok of it. I am using all 3/4" conduit on the walls, but almost went to 1". It would have been better I think.

Interesting but I need to connect #8 wire and those only go to #12.

[Al_The_Man]

Originally Posted by will gilmore 1. Can I remove the transformer and bring in a neutral to get 120V into the cabinet? 2. Does the neutral need to be broken at the disconnect? My reading of the code says it does not because it is a grounded conductor. Will

You can bring in a neutral
The neutral should never be switched or fused.
Wouldn't it be easier to bring in 240 and use the transformer?
Al.