First Post- Over Built and Close

[JIMNY9T]

Hi All:
Time to jump in. Have been reading for along time and time to share. I have always been known for over doing it, and this CNC Router will be no exception. 8020 for the aluminum- 1545 for the base and 3060 for the gantry. 1/2"-10 5 start rod, dual drive on the X-Axis. I found the CNC Router Parts carrages to be outstanding but I did replace the 8mm button head bolts on the bearings with HEX heads. This way I can adjust the bearings with everything assembled. Things worked out well as I wanted the router to extend past the table for vertically placed stock.
I have the computer ready running EMC-2 with a G540 driving 4 Keling KL23H284-35-4B steppers. The Flex Cable arrived today.
Well, do any of you think that this thing will work?--- Jim

[jalessi]

Jim,

Your machine looks awesome, you should be very happy with the performance.

Jeff...

[finishlinewrx]

Im running the same acme screws,gekco driver,and steppers.
Plenty of power and speed.

Good luck with your build
Looks Good!

[vcooney]

Nice job...I have been thinking of use the cnc router parts. Looks like I should go ahead and do it. Also 8020 is the way to go...it works well and looks good.

Vince

[JIMNY9T]

Thanks for the nice words. CNC Router Parts and Dumpster CNC were both great to deal with and both have #1 Products. I did get the Power Supply put together and tested. The transformers may be oversize but they were free. 42 VDC Out and current will never be a problem. Transformers and Bridge all rated at 35 amps, but I will only need 13 or so. The Gecko G540 is mounted to a large heatsink and I have fans for the Bridge and G540 heatsink but I do not think they will be needed. Next up the cables.
Thanks
Jim

[harryn]

Hi - nice setup. Changing to hex heads is a great improvement - that adjustment is difficult otherwise.

Can you tell me how much overhang you have in the rail piece (the distance that the flat metal 1/4 in sheet hangs past the edge of the 80/20?) I am targeting about 1 inch as I want to minimize this distance.

Did you end up going with Cold rolled steel? Plans for rust prvention?

Sorry for all of the questions, but I have the same bearing parts from Ahren.

Thanks

HarryN

[JIMNY9T]

Hi Harry
Happy to help. On the X and Y axis there is 3/4" overhang each side. I also wanted to keep this small to maintain ridigity. On the Z axis it is 1/2" and even with the Hex heads I still have approx 1/16" clearance. I also changed to nylon hex nuts to help keep things tight. As you can see I also mounted an aluminum tube above the carrage with adjustment bolts. This has allowed a controlled method of adjusting rather than the beating with a hammer.

I did use cold rolled steel from Speedy Metals and so far I have not address rust. My shop is very dry and rust has never been an issue. I have thought about paint but have not gone any further.

If you would like to see additional pictures just let me know what you would like to see and I would be happy to post them.

Hope this helps.
Jim

[harryn]

Hi - Thanks. That adjustment tube setup makes a lot of sense. I did not understand what that until you mentioned it, but I have struggled to figure out a method like that. Thanks.

[JIMNY9T]

Harry-
Happy to help. FYI- I used an 8020 5/16 *18 nut inside the tube rather than threading the tube. It worked out real well. On to putting the connectors on. I plan on using DB9's at the steppers as well on the G540. Below is one of the motor connectors. 18ga 4 conductor continuous- flex cable from McMaster Carr.

Jim

[FandZ]

Is that connector soldered? Because mine didn't come out no where near as clean as that. If you soldered that connector, do you have any tips?

Harry-
Happy to help. FYI- I used an 8020 5/16 *18 nut inside the tube rather than threading the tube. It worked out real well. On to putting the connectors on. I plan on using DB9's at the steppers as well on the G540. Below is one of the motor connectors. 18ga 4 conductor continuous- flex cable from McMaster Carr.

Jim

[jalessi]

https://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/tu...torials_id=106

[JIMNY9T]

Hi All:
Thanks for the link to the soldering page. I took a look at it and tend to agree when soldering a board. When doing connectors adding solder to the heated joint requires one more hand than I was born with.

If there was any one hint that I could provide to duplicate the solder joint in the picture--- FLUX, Start with clean metal and use FLUX. ROSEN ONLY!!!!!

My own procedure for a DB9- secure the DB9 in a small vise. Strip the wire, dip the wire in flux and tin the wire. Next lightly flux the pin that you need to attach the wire to. Next- slide the pre-tinned wire into the pin. Hold this in place with the less dominant hand- it must remain still. Now- with the dominant hand dip the hot soldering iron tip in Flux and wipe it clean on your slightly dampened sponge. Melt just a little bit of solder onto the soldering iron tip and gently apply it to the pin/wire. The solder should flow into the joint very quickly. Remove the soldering iron tip and make sure the wire does not move until the solder hardens. When done with all the pins- clean the Flux off with a tooth brush and a little alcohol.

I hope this helps. I have been doing this for years so I have had allot of practice.

Thanks
Jim