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Thread: Roland Scanner and DIY CNC Router

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    Registered theboneman's Avatar
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    Roland Scanner and DIY CNC Router

    This is probably a very simple issue but I am new to "Home-built" routers and I am hoping someone out there might be able to help me out here. I've been using a Roland PIX-3 scanner for years and have amassed a large number of scanned objects. I have been using an MDX-3 to do the cutting of each part one at a time.(Which is incredibly slow) Recently I have been building a DIY router to increase the number of parts I can cut at one time. I have purchased Rhino 4.0 software and Mach3 to drive the unit. Now the problem: I can move the Picza PIX file into rhino and convert it to DXF or most any other format for that matter with no problem. I can even modify it in Rhino if I wish. However, I can't get the mac3 software to creat a g-code or even recognize the file. I try to load it but it just freezes up.These are fairly large point files generally a scanned relief 3" x 5". I really need to use these scans for the project I am working on. How can I convert them into something my home-built can use? Do I need different software?
    Thanks,
    The Boneman


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    Gold Member High Seas's Avatar
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    One way I have used:
    1. Take the Rhino file, save as stl (stereolithography) -- BINARY.
    2. Load it into stlWork2. (available from IMServ -- advertises on the CNCZONE, and they have a trial option.)
    3. Fill in the tables: speeds, tools, offset, etc,
    4. Make a dnc file - load into MACH2/3
    5. Mill.

    Ok thats a few steps - but stlWork2 is pretty cheap compared to RhinoCam or other conversion to G-Code. I'm sure others will have some good inputs for you too. I'm not associated - just like the software.

    Welcome Aboard - and,
    Jim
    Experience is the BEST Teacher. Is that why it usually arrives in a shower of sparks, flash of light, loud bang, a cloud of smoke, AND -- a BILL to pay? You usually get it -- just after you need it.


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    Mach3 is a great program

    but it's mostly for actually running a CNC mill. The "Lazycam" software it comes with is only good for converting 2-d art, which is why you're having a problem with your 3-d scans.

    Save your scans as STL, and download Freemill from the Mecsoft site:

    http://www.mecsoft.com/Mec/Products/FreeMill.shtml

    It's a simple program for generating G-code toolpaths to carve 3d parts on a 3-axis mill. It's free, and won't time out. If you're willing to pay a little for a faster and more flexible program, try the demo of DeskProto Lite:

    http://www.deskproto.com/download/download-dp.htm

    and check "DeskProto Lite Version" - it will run for a month before asking you to buy the program (I sell it for $330).

    Andrew Werby
    www.computersculpture.com


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    Registered theboneman's Avatar
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    Roland Scanner and DIY CNC Router

    Thanks guys for your help! Both of your suggestions seem to work. However, only the stlWorks software (Now that I can get the file to load) allows me to use the fine toolbits I need for the level of detail I require. Currently, I perform a "Draft Cut" with a large toolbit then work my way down to engraving tools or flat end bits as small as .015 on a finish cut strategy. My MDX-3 allows me to define the size toolbit whereas the other two programs just allow you to select from a dropdown menu or from very limited parameters. The Freemill and the DP4 are great but they don't seem to get down to the very small toolbits I need. While investigating this software, I now have a couple more questions: How do I define my DIY router in the software for my custom bed size travel? (30" X 32" w/Acme 1/2-10 anti backlash screw movement with 1.8 steppers with limit switches all around.) Lastly, is it possible to use the roland software on my DIY machine? The MDX-3 software bundle includes the software for the the larger machines like the MDX-650. Is it usable?
    Thank you both for your input. I do appreciate it.
    Last edited by theboneman; 07-06-2008 at 12:43 AM. Reason: New Information


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