selecting the right router

[endgrainguy]

My newly built machine is currently running with a Porter cable 690 series, (694) the variable speed one. I thought it was a good choice because it has a high high speed (27,500) and i plan to do some inlay work with tiny bits. Problems are: 1) it's very loud, especially at higher speeds . 2) because the bits can't be inserted beyond the bottom of the collet, long bits are forced to have a long projection, increasing stress on the bearings, and creating other problems hard to describe. I use the machine mostly for cutting joints, with router held horizontally, but also conventionally for pocketing boxes and trays, and I hope, inlay. I"m wondering about people's experience with the following routers for CNC work especially, considering collet quality and runout, and noise level: Makita RF1101 (anyone know its motor diameter?), Bosch 1617EVS , Freud FT1700vcek, porter cable 892. I own a brand new Freud, and it seems perfect -except its a weird motor diameter, 3.692" so I"d have to irreversibly alter the K2CNC 3.5 inch motor mount to accept it. Anyone have experience about how important bit speed is for cutting inlays with tiny bits, like .02? DO I need a second trim router )Bosch Colt) for this? Thanks!

[solodex2151]

I also have the same Freud router. Cuts like a dream but that diameter is a bugger. For inlay though, the Bosch Colt is a nice router. I am going to use the Hitachi M12VC for general use. I think that you should be able to do fine inlays with it though. K2NCNC has mounts for the Hitachi as well.

Nate

[endgrainguy]

Let me simplify the question: Can anyone tell me if the collets in the Porter Cable 892, or Bosch 1617EVS are set up so that the bit can be inserted well past the bottom of the collet (the way it is in the Porter Cable 7812, or larger Freud routers), or does the bit bottom out right below the bottom of the collet, like on the Porter cable 690 series? Thanks!

[low_48]

I've never seen a router with a through hole in the arbor. The bigger Dewalt plunge routers have a longer collet than the PC, but not a through hole. Have you thought about shortening the bit? I wonder about working in a shallow tray of water and using a small cutoff in a dremel. Wouldn't be fast, but you could control the heat.

[ger21]

The PC 690, 892 and 7518 all use the same collets, and none have a hole behind the collet. Also, never bottom out the bit before tightening, the collet won't tighten correctly.

[tulsah]

I'm not sure if I understand this correctly, but the 1/2" and 1/4" collets for my 7518 are not blind - ie the bit is free to pass completely through the collet.

-tulsah

The PC 690, 892 and 7518 all use the same collets, and none have a hole behind the collet. Also, never bottom out the bit before tightening, the collet won't tighten correctly.

[ger21]

I'm 2000 miles from home right now, so I can't check. I may have misunderstood the first post. So on a 7518, bits can be inserted farther than on the 690? I never really noticed, but like I said, they all use the same collets. I have a 690, 892 and a 7518. I've never used the 892, it's in my almost finished router. I'll check them all when I get home next week.