Home Built Router/Drag Diamond Engraver

[DaSigntist]

Howdy All,
I have found the CNCzone to be a very valuable asset to help me built my first router.

I'm still in the early stages but as a former "lurker" I enjoyed seeing other people’s projects in their progressive stages.

I started out with the hopes of keeping my machine inexpensive but precise and fast enough to do what I need it to do.
I do believe my goal is obtainable thanks to CNCzone.

My table is 4’X4’ with a usable area in the 36” X 40” range.

I was going to go with the design for the lineal bearings as seen in several posts using angle stock and skateboard bearing.
http://www.wholesalesigns.com/cnc1.jpg

After I constructed one prototype using 1” angle iron I thought I would really like to have the bearings on all sides.
After realizing the fact I could surround the 1” rod (picture shows it hollow the final will be solid) with bearings and be able to adjust it.
Using nylon locking nuts seems to be great as it is totally adjustable in 8 places with no play at all!
http://www.wholesalesigns.com/cnc2.jpg
http://www.wholesalesigns.com/cnc3.jpg

Here is a picture of the table.
http://www.wholesalesigns.com/cnc4.jpg

Sorry for the crappy pictures (cheap camera = cheap pictures :-)

I’ll update the pictures as I can.

Well I hope to get some work on it this weekend.

Cheers,
DaSigntist

[DaSigntist]

This weekend I made the gantry which I should end up with a 6” Z height.
During this week I shall buy some 1” cold steel rolled rod and have thread tap in them so I can bolt the ends to the table and have my moving gantry.
I thinking of slots in the ends of the table to be able to micro ajust it and then tourqe well enough so there is no movement using large washers to increase the surface area.

If anyone haves any other thoughts on better way of attaching the rods to the table and still being able to micro ajust the rods please let me know.

Regards,
DaSigntist

[balsaman]

Looks great. Keep it up! Some folks use one of John Klienbauer's inventions to be able to adjust the rails as seen here:

http://www.cnczone.com/showthread.php?threadid=1212

Look at post #2

Eric

[chuckknigh]

Well, since he linked to a picture of my machine, let me tell you how to build the "mounting blocks."

Basically, cut out a square of your material -- I used MDF, but had a little problem with the threads stripping out under load.

Drill a large hole through the middle of the block, through which your shaft will pass.

Drill a hole in each of the 4 sides -- tap them, or use inserts if you wish. Thread in some short bolts.

Voila! You have a somewhat crude, but completely servicable 4-jaw chuck. Most importantly it works great, and makes alignment very simple, indeed.

-- Chuck Knight

P.S. That's 1" black iron gas pipe, and the MDF blocks are about 2" across.

[DaSigntist]

Thank you for the info balsaman/chuckknigh!

Does anyone have any idea what kind of power I’ll need to move this machine with enough speed and power to do production work.
I was thinking the “Shopbot” uses VEXTRA stepping motors with 660 oz/in also in the future I might want to build a new table in the 4’x8’ range and just bring my electronics over.

Can I get away with smaller (cheaper) motors?

For the Driver:
I wanted to use the Xylotex for the fact it’s cheap but with these larger motors they need more amps then the Xylotex can supply.
Anyone know of another driver that is inexpensive and will run over 2.5 amps per phase?

If I can use smaller motors then I could use the Xylotex.

Also can you use unipolar motors in a bipolor driver?

I’m basiclly trying to figure out what’s the best bang for the buck.

Any help would be welcomed!

Regards,
Dasigntist

[balsaman]

www.geckodrive.com

Eric

[DaSigntist]

Hi,
I had all the rods tapped with 5/16” treads to be able to mount them on the ends as seen in the picture.
My concept is to not need a micro adjustment.
The bearings make the rods go naturally were they need to for the fact it’s surrounded by four sides.
Another nice factor is you can enlarge the holes where you mount the rods and tighten enough that it will NOT move (note the large washers).
I still need to mount the bearing to the Z axis but so far I’m impressed with the lack of play in the overall design.

After I setup the X and Y axis my 4 year old daughter made me give here gantry rides (see URL below ;-) She thought it was fun!
www.wholesalesigns.com/spring.jpg

Till next update,
DaSigntist

[balsaman]

That thing is bigger than it looks.

Nice job.

Eric

[DaSigntist]

Thanks Eric.
I'm a novice in the electronic realm.
When I look at their site I do not see anything about the PC interface.
If I have intuitive instructions I’m OK but I can’t find anything.
From what I read on CNCzone you need a breakout board.
Where do you acquire these and how would you hook it up?

I’m finding other boards do not have the support for the amps per phase I need as I’m looking for 600 oz/in motors.
What is the difference between the G201 and G210?

I wish they had a package deal for novices ;-)

Regards,
DaSigntist

[balsaman]

The instructions you get with the drives is the same one you download at geckodrive. You don't NEED a breakout board but it makes it a little easier. They also usually provide such things as inputs for limits and outputs for relays to switch your router and such.

I made my own. It's really just a parallel port plug-to-terminal strip affair with a few transistors for outputs and a bunch of pullup resistors for inputs. Total cost around $15.00

Eric

[DaSigntist]

Thanks for the reply.
Sounds easy and cheap (but your the electrician :-) I'm the graphic artist/Signmaker.

I contacted Camtronics and am trying to secure a package deal for motors (600 to 800 oz/in)/geckos/power supply/cables.

I hope his price will be acceptable because I won't need to learn as much now and the stuff you have taken many years to know so well.

I don't mind leaning as I have with all the other bits of the machine but if Camtronics works well then it's like the McDonalds of CNC get it fast and easy ;-)

My biggest fear is I buy the wrong stuff and end up with a half baked machine with lame performance.

Regards,
DaSigntist

I older I get the less I know.......Man do I feel old ;-)

[DaSigntist]

Howdy,
I’ve since primed and painted the MDF and recived my ACME rod (5/8”) and made my anti-backlash nuts.
I have also ordered a motion setup from MaxNC complete with servos, controller, power supply, couplers and limit switches (same as used on their Maxpath 42) which should be here tomorrow.
I’m waiting to receive the motors to measure for the ACME rod and to see what type of cuplars they send (keyhole or not) so I can have the ends machined for the rods to join the couplers and the end support bearings.
I hoping to be making chips in a week or so.
Then I 'll worry about dust extraction ;-)