LinkBack URL
About LinkBacks
Yet another one shatters conventional wisdom and proves that steel machines can be welded.It's a nicely designed and built machine too.
You're going to get a lot of use out of that one. Enjoy your newfangled hobby.
CarveOne
| | |
2nd machine, welded steel Hi Gents, guess it's time to show what I have been up to. But first, a little history...
I started into the machinist trade back in 1995. I was never involved in any CNC work however, all manual. Lathe, mill, drill, brake. Did that for a few years, and then switched over to mechanical repair work (Heavy duty mech). I always hated standing in front of a machine and building 300 of something. I didn't mind making one or two of something, just the multiple part machining bothered me. Working at a sawmill, they paid by the hour, and they had the machines, so my employer would get me to make the parts. Back then I had no idea that CNC equipment could be possible to make in your own workshop. Hell, I didnt even know it was possible until October 2011.
Anyways, fast forward a few years. After getting out of a service truck working in the natural gas industy, and into a product support role (more free time at home), I found this site and was floored. Some of you guys (and gals) have been tinkering for years!! Anyways, I started building a JGRO back in October 2011. Bought some good parts, some bad parts, and some parts still yet to be usedBut in the end, I had a functioning piece of equipment that DID respond to computer inputs.
I know I havent been very active in posting on the board, and spent most of my time lurking, but hopefully that will change now that the new machine is built. I want to thank everyone that provided answers to my questions, and will try helping those that need advice.
The second machine that I have built is made from 1/8" steel tubing, the rails are 2"x4" and sit on a bed (4) of 1.5"x1.5" tubing. Cutting area is 48"x26". Most of the parts are from CNC router parts (Ahren), which is a GREAT place to get parts from. I am in Canada, and some of the shipping was slow, but that was to be expected. I built the acrylic dust shoe myself, from a few pics on the board. I had a hard time finding any dust broom, so I cut up 4 paintbrushes (3" wide) and glued them into a 1/8" pocket on the bottom side of the shoe. It didnt take too long to get it all fixed up, and I think it looks good too. It works GREAT! No more dust all over the shop.
Anyways, thanks to everyone on the forum!
Yet another one shatters conventional wisdom and proves that steel machines can be welded.
You're going to get a lot of use out of that one. Enjoy your newfangled hobby.
CarveOne
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
Thanks Carveone. It really wasnt too hard to weld it up, I didnt have any fancy jigs or even a large flat table to weld it up on. I did it on 2 wooden sawhorses.I just took my time and squared everything up. I was told along time ago, "tack, measure, then attack". Using the cold rolled steel for the track allowed me to shim everything up square and true. I am probably within .005" on the long axis (which I call my X axis!!). I would expect that if someone built one which was welded up, using CRS rails, you could probably be out 1/8 inch and still shim it up. It just needs to be shimmed properly. A person can do alot with a good aluminum straight edge and a couple of machinists squares. Of course measuring well first saves a lot of time shimming. I learned along time ago that every time you cut the tolerances in half, you double the time to do it. And I am very happy to get that kind of tolerance, especially with something built at home!
It is some effort, but it's my preferred construction method. If something goes awry it has always been me that was in too much of a hurry. I've built two successful steel machines and I'm certainly no highly trained expert weldor. I've been noticing a few more steel builds appear lately.
CarveOne
CarveOne
http://www.carveonecncwoodcraft.com
I like it, my next machine is already underway and it too will be fully welded. Here are a few pics of the base minus the stand yet to be made. My gantry will be very much the same as to what you have built. My outside dimensions are 40" x 60".
Thanks for sharing,
Tom
Nice work so far Tom. Are you going to be using CRS rails for your x and y axis?
Tom, is that racking/shelving material that you are using for the long pieces? How straight is it?Originally Posted by DeadTom
My welding experience allows me to burn holes right through most pieces I have tryed. (cheap chinese 100 amp arc welder- overheats at the drop of a hat!). So I drilled, and tapped, drilled and tapped, and then did some more drilling and tapping on my build. Mostly steel, only aluminum used was for the table slats. However, I like your concept of using cold drawn and shims.Thanks Carveone. It really wasnt too hard to weld it up, I didnt have any fancy jigs or even a large flat table to weld it up on. I did it on 2 wooden sawhorses.
It really set me to thinking about the possibilities for my second build. A rigid, welded base frame would be really nice. (IF I can ever get the hang of welding with the cheap equipment I have to work with). However, I would still use the adjustable design features I used in my first build. They do come in handy, for truing things up. Even though it does involve a LOT of drilling and tapping!
Things like milled slots, and threaded holes for jack screws at key frame-to-track mounting areas of the machine allows for adjustability to dial things in. Judging from your photos, My hat is off to you, Sir for an excellent design!
With the indulgence of the original poster I will answer just these few questions and thank you for the comments.
lazorus,
I have not decided that point yet, as with everyone else I have budgetary constraints to work within but do not want to compromise the use of such a rigid base.
Paul,
Yes, ding..ding..ding, we have a winner. These were the straighest that I could lay my hands on. There is a business locally that is like a part junk yard and part storage solutions... any ways they have tons of racking in various sizes and these are very short and stout.
adprinter,
thanks, but if you notice I did not show closeups of the welds as I did burn some holes into the 1/8" square tubing which had to be repaired nothing major though. The racking seems to be fairly thick when I welded the two together I had no hole burning problems. It sits nice a flat no warping issues that I can detect now comes the stand to place this upon.
I will start a build thread when I get some work done to show,
Tom
Perhaps you need more experience welding with different settings on the welder.My welding experience allows me to burn holes right through most pieces I have tryed.
Teqniuqe is also a factor to consider.
What thickness was you welding to burn holes? anything below 2mm takes a bit of experience to weld without blowing through.
The settings on my welder go up to 1/8" (100 amps). Because of the over heating issues, I generally leave it set at around 85 to 90 amps. I have been practicing with everything I have around the place. Conduit piping, (about 1/16" walled), angle steel (about 1/8" thick), reinforcing rods (3/4" diameter), etc. The over heating of the cheap welder is a major problem to getting the hang of it. As it seems that every time I am successfully feeding the rod to the puddle for a good bead, is when it overheats and clicks off. Then it's wait about 45 minutes for it to cool down enough to be able to turn it back on.
I have already resolved, that it's going to require better equipment, before I will be able to learn the technique! It's just that being on a fixed income, makes dealing with what I already have necessary.
This sounds like an 'Arc Welder'? if so dump it and get a Mig.
A mig welder is a doddle compared to rod arc welding and you can get right down onto the job no holding a rod in one hand and the torch in the other.
Where was these 35 yeard ago?
Posting Permissions
| | |
