just to reconfirm before i click the purchase... what gauge wires recommended for connections to G540 to e-stop, limit, probes?
i have some 22 AWG shielded, seems much thinner that what i see in many build logs.
Like on an ice cube (RJ45?), male needs crimping, female needs punching. There are many more products and techniques than I am familiar with. I use mostly Leviton. However use of solid wire would be fine if you left an unstrained arc of sufficient diameter and tied down the wiring near the connections. Though stranded would be best for movement.
just to reconfirm before i click the purchase... what gauge wires recommended for connections to G540 to e-stop, limit, probes?
i have some 22 AWG shielded, seems much thinner that what i see in many build logs.
I use 22 gauge for everything, and my stuff works.![]()
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
22 shielded is ideal for inputs. No need for anything bigger.
About the only thing you can think about is that the most easily available shielded wire is foil shield. That's great for things that don't flex. If you have a run that is in an e-chain, it's desirable to have something like braid shield (microphone cable for example).
Having said that, lots of DIY machines have foil shielded wires and they seem to work okay.
So after reading this thread I run a Gecko 540 I have 3 home switches and 3 limit switches on my machine right now. I have my limit switches wired in a series If I wire home switches in a series that would free up room to hook up a touch plate I am wired like the image below at this time?
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http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/140832-new_fla-100_kit_build.html
There's really little reason to have them wired into separate inputs unless you modify Mach 3 for simultaneous homing.
In fact, there's few reasons to not wire your limit switches in series with your home switches.
-Andy B.
http://www.birkonium.com CNC for Luthiers and Industry http://banduramaker.blogspot.com
I just followed the instructions of my CNC manufacture all in one series?
Lou
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/140832-new_fla-100_kit_build.html
You most certainly can. There are a couple of reasons for having separate home & limit connections, the big one is having a home switch in a different position than a limit (e.g. you'd need more than 6 switches for a 3 axis machine).
I suppose if you don't need the inputs for anything else, there's certainly no harm having them wired separately. And, it's definitely less work to leave it how it is.
-Andy B.
http://www.birkonium.com CNC for Luthiers and Industry http://banduramaker.blogspot.com
I will hook up my home switches in a series and leave the limit switches hooked up in a series that will free up two more connection points.
Thanks Lou
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/140832-new_fla-100_kit_build.html
I dont know if this will help but I was planning on putting my limit switches on the e stop through a momentary switch so the machine could be moved if it hit one. That would free up another one of your inputs
The NC,NO & C on my limit switch's to run the home switch"s in a series do I wire the same as my limit switches using the C,NC right now they are wired like the diagram above C,NO.?
Lou
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cnc_router_table_machines/140832-new_fla-100_kit_build.html
Yes, to run them in series you have too use the normally closed (NC) terminals. They won't work in series using the NO terminals.
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)