One Big, One Smaller ... My 1st builds - TrickyCNC

[TrickyCNC]

Rich, I think if you work with Vetcric software enough you'll come around to the 'dark side' and use Windows.

As far as I could tell from my quick tests, Vectric works well in linux, so no need to go to windows. That was what I was so pleased about

Besides, why would I want to pay for an OS that actually does nothing useful and is not as good as the one I get for free

[TrickyCNC]

Z problems

After 2hrs of a relief carve. the Z dicided not to raise, so the next cut was about .01" deeper and ruined the work.

My Z motor is getting really hot. if I wet my finger and touch it, it boils !
I'll look at wiring it in parallel tomorrow.

Also, I have marked the coupler and the shaft. They are out of alignment slightly, so at 1st I didn't worry. But thinking about it, it could haver spun and landed where it is now. I'll tighten it and try again tomorrow.

It seems to be the heavier cuts where the Z misses steps...

I'm running allthread and a couple of plain old nuts on my Z, as I made it to test it. I've since got me some 2 start acme rod and some delrin, so I'll start on that upgrade too.

Any other suggestions welcome

Ta

Rich

[louieatienza]

With the allthread, even small movements will cause the stepper to spin a lot. Also, with the steel-to-steel rubbing of the nuts and threads, it might be causing some galling? Have you lubricated the screw and nuts well? Maybe preload on the rails too tight? Dirt in the screws or bearings?

[TrickyCNC]

when I test the axis, it moves freely.

Mind you, saying that, I had to slow the X rapids down to about 1/2 the test rate, as I had the same issue there. (Only just remembered that / connected the two )

My Z was moving 30IPM (is that any good for allthread ? ), I'll try it at 20 and see....

[CarveOne]

Go ahead and do the 2 start ACME upgrade and don't waste time and effort with the all-thread parts. You'll never regret the change. It sounds like the all-thread parts are wearing in and galling. Lubricating it will probably help but will not be the cure. When the 2 start parts are properly aligned the motor won't get so hot from screw/nut friction and misalignment and the speed will more than double with the new parts and loss of friction loading on the motor.

CarveOne

[TrickyCNC]

Thanks C1, Louie.

I wired the Motor in parallel this morning, and doubled the feed rate. All is well with a 1/2 hr test piece, and the motor is a lot cooler. running at about 50IPM on the Z now.

I will be making the upgrade to ACME.

I did build this Z, just as a stop gap, with what I had to hand, with the thinking that I would use it to make a proper Z.

I am finding I have a lack of cutters. The smallest I have is 1/4", which it obviously no good for detail work.

What cutters should I be looking at for general 3d relief work ?

I'm about to make a rough cutter from 1/4" bar, just so I can have another play with cutting a relief but I realy need to buy some good ones.

Cheers all

Rich

[TrickyCNC]

been playing , er , I mean 'testing' some more.

a few pics...


a carved rosette in a scrap of oak. This is the sort of stuff I want to do for my ('fake') Repro - Antiques. I havent got any cutters yet, so I made one out of some 1/4" steel rod to cut this. I ground it down to a point, then removed half the dia, so it had a flat, then flattened the bottom. Only took 5 mins to make, as a test, but it cut pretty good and was still sharp after.
It a 1/4" deep carving , done in one pass. (just to see how it worked)



It didn't look very neat at 1st glance,


but a rub with some 3M scouring sponge stuff, and a bit of Black Bison Wax, it looked a treat !





you can see the cutter marks from the home made effort (I'll radius the bottom a bit next time), but I'm really chuffed so far !

I don't know why there are the vertical lines on the flat bit ? maybe a bad bit on my X rail ?

[louieatienza]

been playing , er , I mean 'testing' some more.

a few pics...


a carved rosette in a scrap of oak. This is the sort of stuff I want to do for my ('fake') Repro - Antiques. I havent got any cutters yet, so I made one out of some 1/4" steel rod to cut this. I ground it down to a point, then removed half the dia, so it had a flat, then flattened the bottom. Only took 5 mins to make, as a test, but it cut pretty good and was still sharp after.
It a 1/4" deep carving , done in one pass. (just to see how it worked)



It didn't look very neat at 1st glance,


but a rub with some 3M scouring sponge stuff, and a bit of Black Bison Wax, it looked a treat !





you can see the cutter marks from the home made effort (I'll radius the bottom a bit next time), but I'm really chuffed so far !

I don't know why there are the vertical lines on the flat bit ? maybe a bad bit on my X rail ?

Looks good for a homemade bit! Since those ridges occur regularly, U'd be more inclined to think you may have to tweak you ballscrew; ot you may be geting some binding at the bearing nut?

For carving, you might want to look into some tapered ballnose bits...

[TrickyCNC]

Since those ridges occur regularly, U'd be more inclined to think you may have to tweak you ballscrew; or you may be getting some binding at the bearing nut?

Interesting ... I hadn't thought of that, or noticed that they were all the way across ! The ballscrew assembly from the motor to the bearing block on the far end, came to me 'as is' . Rescued from a skip, and stored outside (under cover) for about 10 yrs ! I cleaned up the threads a bit, but that's about all. How would you go about 'tweaking' it ? I did notice the other day, some vibration coming from that motor. I'll try moving the screw by hand and see if I can feel anything. The motor end is a sealed unit, I didn't fancy taking it apart until I knew a bit more about what I was doing.

For carving, you might want to look into some tapered ballnose bits...

Thanks, I'll look out for a supplier. Although, in the software packages I've played with so far, I haven't seen the option for a tapered ball nose. Just ballnose, straight, or Vee. I am very new to all this though. This was cut in LinuxCNC (EMC2) just by loading in a JPG, and it cut it as a depth map.

[TrickyCNC]

I've been thinking about this. the ridges are a depth issue (Z) so the only way the X could cause them, is if a resonance was set up and the whole gantry was 'knodding'. Would that be correct ? If so, a change in speed should help, I think.

Rich

[RetiredTinker1]

I would like to build a wood CNC router as a platform to learn how to put a CNC machine together. I have a Milling machine I would like to convert some day. Does anyone have a "shopping" list I could use to start with?
I have a very limited knowledge of the CNC world.
Thanks,
RetiredTinker1

[flojor10]

I would like to build a wood CNC router as a platform to learn how to put a CNC machine together. I have a Milling machine I would like to convert some day. Does anyone have a "shopping" list I could use to start with?
I have a very limited knowledge of the CNC world.
Thanks,
RetiredTinker1

This is just a start but it might help.

Leadscrews 3
AB Nuts 3
Spindle or Router 1
Linear Rails and Bearing Blocks 6
Leadscrew bearings 6
Nema 23 stepper motors 3
Shaft/Leadscrew Coupling 3
Controller Board 1
Power supply 1
Router Mount 1
Hardware
Frame Material
Endmills
Router bits


Optional:
Limit Switches 6
Super PID 1
Breakout Board 1