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These work great, and there are several pics in the thread.
Electronic home switches made easy!
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I need some ideas... so please post some of your methods for mounting home switches if you have them..
Thanks,
Mark
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
[U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]
These work great, and there are several pics in the thread.
Electronic home switches made easy!
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I was going through this same issue 3 weeks ago. I'm building a FLA-100, and I was using cheap micro-switches. To keep with the all-aluminum design, i ordered some 2x2 angle from 8020, and cut it into 2 inch strips, and machined brackets for all the switches. I used 4-20 screws for the switches and (i think) 5/16 x .75 carrige bolts to secure the brackets to the aluminum extrusions of my machine.
I uploaded some pics of the design from my phone, and you should be able to see them here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/1140774...eat=directlink
I just figured out how to upload from my phone, so here they are again.
Here are photos of the switches that I've installed:
Last edited by DonFrambach; 05-31-2011 at 12:04 AM.
Pictures taken today. More completed machine (cables routed).
Mountaincraft- Please check out the thread on "electronic home switches";
Electronic home switches made easy!
Photos of my machine sensors and many other people's sensors are in there. The electronic ones use a tiny solid-state sensor and moving magnet, so there is nothing that can wear out and they are very accurate.
DonFrambach- That machine looks more serious everytime I see it!
I don't know where I'd buy those locally, and time is getting to be an issue.. I already have 4 switches I bought from CNCRP... So I'll probably use those once I figure out how to wire them..
However, I'll be rebuilding the base of this thing with heavy steel in the near future, so at that time I can switch them out...
I was watching the homing and limits vid again on the ArtSoft website last night..
And I learned a couple cool things that I didn't catch the first time..
I've been frustrated because every time I want to change a tool, I have to jog the thing all the way to the end of the table where I can reach it.. I hate that because the more jogging I do, the more chance of breaking a bit or whatever.. plus it's a little bit of a pin period..
But now I know that I can use a work offset to do this... Just set it up, click on the offset, and select "go to zero", and the system jogs the router out to where I need it to change bits...
What I'm wondering, is if there is a way to assigning keyboard shortcuts to those work offset buttons? That would make things pretty nice.. Is this possible?
Also, on these sensors you're talking about, can they be set up either active high or active low, or will I be stuck with one or the other?
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
[U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]
Sorry I can't advise on the keyboard shortcuts for your CNC software, maybe there are Mach3 experts lurking around here somewhere?
The Hall sensors (actually hall switches) output wire goes LOW when the magnet is over the sensor. The output wire is HIGH when there is no magnet. Normally you can just check a box in the Mach3 config (I believe) to set the sensor as active high or active low as you choose.
The best way to think of the hall switches is like a switch to ground. When the magnet is present the switch closes. They have the 2 wires for the switch (like your mechanical limit switches) and also a third wire for power.
As long as your wires, switches, and connectors function properly, it doesn't make any difference if your switches are high or low when activated. However, it seems best to me to have your switches go low when activated. That way if something goes wrong with a wire or one of your switches, you system will sense a low so you know there is a problem before slam your machine into a hard stop because the switch didn't work.
Originally Posted by DonFrambach
That is exactly why I was asking..
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
[U][URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/woodworking/135576-home_made_drum_sander.html"]Home Made Drum Sander Project[/URL][/U]
Take a look here.
Optical MPG and Switch Idea's
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