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Is one easier on cutting tools than the other?
If not, is there any reason why I can not (or should not) use particle board for my sacrifice board?
Thanks,
Mark
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
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I haven't tried it, but I will say MDF is a lot denser than particleboard, meaning less voids, so as you surface your spoilboard, MDF will remain relatively smooth. Particleboard or flakeboard is pretty weak in the inside, and relies on it's "skin" for it's strength moreso than MDF.
How about cutting tools? Is one harder on them than the other? Are there tools made to last longer when cutting this stuff?
One of the reasons I'm asking all this is because I already have a few sheets of particle board... and want to know if I can use it or should just bite the bullet and buy some MDF...
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
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I've never used different tools for particleboard over MDF. My only thing with particleboard is if you have to surface it; don't know how well it would hold up. If you're cutting melamine-coated boards, you might want a compression spiral bit so that you have clean edges on both sides; and I believe there are different geometries for hardwoods, plywoods, and particleboard/MDF....Originally Posted by Mountaincraft
There are PCD (plycrystalline diamond) bits, but they're super-expensive.
Do you use different bits of MDF than you do for plywood or hardwood? Or are these bits I'm buying pretty much universal to everything?
Probably gonna be cutting quite a bit of 1/2" MDF and plywood in the future.. as well as hardwoods... Should I be getting different bits for each?
This is the most intimidating part of all this.. choosing the right cutter and DOC/Feed rates...
[URL="http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wood_router_project_log/124543-mountaincrafts_router_plasma_build_thread.html"][U]4' x 8' CNC Wood Router Project[/U][/URL]
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I would imagine that there is more glue in particle board. But it really shouldn't matter if you do not cut into your spoilboard more than needed to...
But for me personally, I would prefer not to have particle board in my shop, hose or any project I am involved with... Unless I need to make a fire!
So, I guess you can't use particle board for anything.
DO NOT BURN PARTICLE BOARD. The fumes are very bad.
I know you were kidding, but we wouldn't want to give any one the idea.
Actually if you have a vacuum system, LDF is the best followed by MDF.
When you use particle board for a non-vacuum spoil board, it has a tendency to loose chucks. So after awhile it's not very smooth.
Isn't LDF = particleboard?
And what do you mean by "followed by" Attach one on top of the other?
by "non-vacuum" are you referring to a hold down system or a dust collection system?When you use particle board for a non-vacuum spoil board, it has a tendency to loose chucks. So after awhile it's not very smooth.
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LDF is a lower density version of MDF... And the higher version HDF
I like this stuff personally... machines very well and paints up good!
Although it cannot be used in all places of normal wood, still a good product.
Many argue about fumes from burning treated wood and other products with chems in, but what smoke is healthy?!
I'm sure particle board has some uses, but I feel the drawbacks are not worth the trouble. brittle, falls apart if it gets wet... I seen it used for flooring where it got wet and was catastrophic!
totally agree with Johny
I don't see any reason why particle board wouldn't be OK as a sacrificial underlay. As far as your bits go, just use good quality carbide twist bits and you can use them on plywood, mdf or hardwood.
mark
it has been my experience the particle board is more "trashy" and will ruin bits quickly.
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