Arrange the two wrenches so you squeeze them together. About 2-3" apart. You'll find they slowly release, and you're hands don't move. This also doesn't apply any force to the spindle.
Tighten the same way, just squeeze.
Okay, I'll admit this is a dumb question, but almost every time I change router bits, I bang my knuckles...and they are tired of bleeding.
I use a Makita router for a spindle (a very good router) - and it takes two wrenches to change bits. I have to put a lot of force on the wrenches, and when they let go, my right hand hits the bottom of the router mount and the bleeding begins.
My older (and cheaper, I might add) routers had spindle locks which really helped in changing bits. Seems like all the "good" routers now use the same two-wrench method.
How do you change router bits and protect your knuckles from abuse?
Thanks,
Angie
Arrange the two wrenches so you squeeze them together. About 2-3" apart. You'll find they slowly release, and you're hands don't move. This also doesn't apply any force to the spindle.
Tighten the same way, just squeeze.
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
Like this.
http://media.rd.com/rd/images/rdc/fa...bits-01-af.jpg
You can use two hands the same way, if you want it a bit tighter.
Gerry
Mach3 2010 Screenset
http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html
(Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management)
I have both the makita and the porter cable router and I really dont like the makitas collet. I always end up fighting it, getting my knuckles banged up or have to tap out a stuck bit.
I got a collet set from precise bits.com and i use it on my porter cable, they are very nice and come off perfect everytime, I think they use an er20 style collet.
the new porter cables have the spindle locks which are nice.
Thanks, Ger. I just went out and tried it. My knuckles also thank you.
Angie
p.s. - to those "wrench challenged" like me...if you are looking down on the wrenches and the bottom wrench (the one on the collet) is at 9 o'clock: to tighten the collet, the top wrench starts at 7 o'clock; to loosen the collet, the top wrench starts at 11 o'clock.
Another option for a chuck on your routers. I know of a gentleman and machinist who produces a quick change chuck that works very well. It was originally designed for the CarveWright and Compucarve toys. I've used it myself and in most cases should improve runout. He is willing to adapt his "Rock Chuck" Design to other routers if you provide him with a a collet from one of your routers. I have a 1/2" Dia. Rock Chuck along with 1/4" and 1/8" sleeves and haven't had a bit slip and the machine (before it died) ran a lot quieter with less noticeable vibration and improved quality. Right now i'm waiting for my new machine to ship before he gets to my adapter. The original design has a two part locking system that locks onto your spindles threads like some of the higher end collets. When installed, one Allen T wrench is all i need to change bits and or sleeves. His website is at http://WWW.CW-Parts.com . ... and yes i still have to pay him for what i want, i don't get anything out of this accept no split knuckles.
MH