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DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here!


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Old 12-11-2009, 11:36 AM
 
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How are you cutting aluminum for the router frame

Hi All:

I am planning on making my first cnc router and got a real sweet deal on Bosch aluminum extrusions. But now i am scratching my head on the best way to cut it.

I've seen some people use the non-ferrous metal cutting blades on a miter saw. But i am not yet ready to plunk down $50 for the metal blade.

I am interested in hearing from what others have been doing to cut the metal accurately.
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Old 12-11-2009, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by rkovvur View Post
Hi All:

I am planning on making my first cnc router and got a real sweet deal on Bosch aluminum extrusions. But now i am scratching my head on the best way to cut it.

I've seen some people use the non-ferrous metal cutting blades on a miter saw. But i am not yet ready to plunk down $50 for the metal blade.

I am interested in hearing from what others have been doing to cut the metal accurately.
Hi rkovvur,

Although I am fairly new to CNC, I built my Z-axis assembly using 1/2 inch aluminum 6061. To cut it, I used my radial arm saw with carbide tipped plywood (48 teeth, or more per inch) blade. All cuts were 1/16 to 1/8 inches deep. A pain having to crank the blade height after every pass, but it worked great for me.

Don't forget to put on safety glasses. I had some small cuttings fly around a little bit.

Hope this helps

Al
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Old 12-11-2009, 12:18 PM
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Any carbide tipped blade will cut aluminum. I'd recommend at least 60 teeth, and a triple chip tooth is best. For precise cuts, my preference would be a table saw with a sliding cutoff table.
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Old 12-11-2009, 01:47 PM
 
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Thanks!

Yup, it looks like all metal cutting blades are TCG. I am worrying that if i mount the blade on my miter saw, will i have problem with the speed. Do metal cutting blades need to be run slower?
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Old 12-11-2009, 02:07 PM
 
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I have a dewalt miter saw and used just the normal carbide tipped blade. Having said that, I did cut it slowly, and big chips of Al fly all over - and I mean ALL OVER - including right back at your face.

Not only do I recommend safety glasses, but actually a face shield.

IMHO, and this is from a beginner - cutting Al is not so terribly different than cutting old growth hard maple or a hard oak.

I don't use the same wood blade to cut the Al as my normal wood though - so you really have not avoided buying a second blade.
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Old 12-11-2009, 02:12 PM
 
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You can get away with cutting aluminum at the normal miter saw speed though ideally a slower speed is better. Dry cut metal saws usually run around 1300 rpm (albeit with a 14" blade) and cold saws around 300-400 rpm.

I have cut plenty of aluminum picture frame molding with mitre saw and have had good results. Using a wax lubrication stick will help: http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/200...Lubricant.aspx

bob
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Old 12-11-2009, 02:14 PM
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Rkovvur,

Apply a shot of WD-40 once in a while.

Using a smaller diameter blade may help also.

Jeff...
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Old 12-11-2009, 03:59 PM
 
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I have cut 20/20 and 6061 plate with my chop saw no problem, just use a tct blade and cut down slow and it will cut like butter.
You will need a full face shield and coverd arms the chips fly every where and stick.
I have even used my router hand held with fence to cut 1" deep channels with no problem, just lots of shallow cuts and again was very easy. . . . Scary as bloody hell at first but wounce i settled down relaxed my grip etc it was no harder than cutting any hard-hardwood, infact i used an old 2 flute 12.5 x 50mm tc wood bit.
Give it a try you will be amazed just how easy it cuts, a squirt of cutting fluid and really shallow cuts, I just started with scratch like cuts at first then just went deeper untill i felt comfortable.
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Old 12-13-2009, 05:06 AM
 
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I had some 3"x3" solid aluminum I needed cut at exactly 1.5"... I just looked up 'machining' in the yellow pages and called around.
I found several places that claimed could do it same day and accurately, cost $20 to cut 30 pieces and all were exactly on.
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