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DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here!


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Old 10-08-2009, 04:51 PM
 
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First machine

This isn't much, just a pile of hardware, but you have to start somewhere.

I am going to build a 2' x 4' CNC router based on the http://buildyourcnc.com/ design. The plan is to cut wood, acrylic and possibly very thin (25 and 50 mil) aluminum. At the very least it will be a learning experience and I can cut parts for the inevitable next machine.

More to come.
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:06 PM
 
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Hi Wriley

It might just look like hardware to some, but wondrous things can be made from it.
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Old 10-08-2009, 09:26 PM
 
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Is that aluminum angle? If so and you are using it for the linear bearings you may want to grab some steel angle as I believe the aluminum wears down rather easily. Maybe I'm wrong though.
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Old 10-09-2009, 11:32 AM
 
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Originally Posted by Hdale85 View Post
Is that aluminum angle? If so and you are using it for the linear bearings you may want to grab some steel angle as I believe the aluminum wears down rather easily. Maybe I'm wrong though.
Yes, it is aluminum angle for the bearings. I have not heard of any wear problems but will look into it, thanks.
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Old 10-09-2009, 12:09 PM
 
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It's just that it's quite a bit softer then the steel variants. Good luck with he build though!
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:07 PM
 
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Aluminum for the bearings should be fine. If you're using the aluminum for the rails then you might run into a problem with wear.

Are you planning on using Acme screws or hardware store threaded rod?
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:19 PM
 
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Originally Posted by alt.don View Post
Aluminum for the bearings should be fine. If you're using the aluminum for the rails then you might run into a problem with wear.
This machine won't be used for day to day, full time production but I will definitely keep an eye on the rail wear.

Originally Posted by alt.don View Post
Are you planning on using Acme screws or hardware store threaded rod?
For starters I am going with threaded rod. I want to get up and going cheap and then I can upgrade or build a new machine on down the road. 1/4-20 seems too flimsy so I am going to look at some of the bigger rod.
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Old 10-09-2009, 02:31 PM
 
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Hi wriley

I saw the bearings that he is using do not use that type ending in ZZ you want to have the same bearing # but ending in 2RS

ZZ are only shielded, 2RS are rubber shielded/sealed & will keep the dust out better
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Old 10-09-2009, 07:25 PM
 
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Wouldn't threaded rod have issues with binding and what not. Generally ball screws are used.

Last edited by Hdale85; 10-09-2009 at 07:46 PM.
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Old 10-09-2009, 08:05 PM
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mactec54, thanks for the info on the bearings. I assumed the rubber bearings were inferior to the steel shielded ones.


1/2 10 ACME rods can be had for 9$ per 6ft.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...PARTPG=INLMK32

You can also get the bolts for 1.69 each.
http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT

I know people somehow use the bolts and a thrust bearing or two get near or 0 backlash instead of useing a derlin nut. I'm just not sure how the configuration is done. I went with a derlin nut myself. But my point is, it's cheap and something you could move to your next machine. Plus the speeds you'll get from 1/4 20 will be horrible. Just saying, it's cheap and superior.

I'm running my X axis on aluminum. There is an obvious track where the bearing rolls but wear doesn't seem to be much of an issue. No Idea on how long they will last but I'm sure it's over a hundred hours of use. You'll just need to watch for swarf getting between your bearing and your rail. The aluminum will deform before the steel bearing does.

Anyways looking forward to your build.
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Old 10-12-2009, 09:57 AM
 
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Thank you for the info mactec and FandZ, that is very helpful.
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Old 10-26-2009, 12:55 PM
 
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Small update, my bearings have arrived so this week I hope to get started on the linear guides.
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