New Machine Build- 100% overhaul :D

[slavkok]

Hello...

After aprox 3 years of abuse that skate bearing and MDF I was ready for next step. The old machine has terrible Z axis (they are too flexible) and in all MDF is not good material if you cut aluminum and brass. There are 'spots' of WD40 everywhere

So as I need to do major rebuild of Z axis there is little result...

Picture worth 1001 words

[slavkok]

... more stuff here.. I just turned off my computer due thunderstorm here..

So the new design is losely based on Klenibauer "jester" http://www.crankorgan.com/jester.htm
It's dificult to get plans from him if you are in Europe

So the 1'st thing I change was slide bearing material. Delrin is good but here can be problematic due shrinkage with temperature. So I decide to use brass on stainless steel. So I remove all plastic fromm machine. Only lead nut is temporary from UHMW and motor coupling is made from piece of hidraulic hose. I thing I leave that coupler as is. There is more steel inside than ruber (I discover that when I wish to cut that stuff!)

So I do Dry run with that axis done.
I can jog that with 5000mm/m.
I have little backlash in nut very fast. The guide is made preaty stiff so there is NO play and I need more force to move table than older design. Butt as seems the steeper have no problem to move that - fast.

In 1'st place I intend just to replace Z axis in old machine. But when I make that new axis I se how better is than old one and decide to make all machine 100% overhauled. (read - build from scratch)

[slavkok]

Well let's go ahead...

1'st thing when got all tubing is to debur edges. After that I just mark where the holes should be and how manny with permanent pen. (works for me)
As near all holes is in same place related to the end of tube I just made quick and dirty jig from PCB stuff I have. After that I use (DYI) transfer punch to mark exact location on tube. After that I drilled all holes (more than 100) and tap it where is not possible to use nut. (in middle of rails)

... more to come ...

[Thazul]

Hello slavkok,

Very nice pictures, I like your idea of using square tubing and brass strips for your linear ways
Looks like a good way to make DIY Box Ways
I am very interested to see how this works out for you

Can't wait to see more pics and maybe a video!

Keep up the good work

-

Andy

[slavkok]

Deleted message.

[slavkok]

... little new progress

Yestrday I make my hacksaw dull as I hacksawing stainless to make webs. After that I make X frame and square it. With My caliper I can't measure any missalignment. So 25mm X 25mm stainless square tubes for rails seems to be straight.

Next step to make webs for Y axis (probably with fresh hacksaw) and build Y frame.

Slavko.

[slavkok]

... with fresh hacksaw blade I made rest of the webs and finish rails.

[slavkok]

The next step is to made brass slides. I'm just make simple test to test what is best. One long or two short. Seems that two short is little better. I don't know why but dont care. (Anyway I was short on that brass stock )

After that I fit brass pads to guides...

[slavkok]

... ahh I can't resist to put alltogether to see what I build. It's good also to see if anything is ok and not to interfere with other. I put Z axis on top too ...

I need to slow down a little

Now I need some how to fit Z axis to base and what to use for base.
As I start this only as replacment part for old one I have no plan how to build complete.

So base on old machine is 30mm laminated MDF (it's the material used for kitchen benchtop) and Jester plans I losely used use MDF/Plywood here. I wish to use something stronger. Also the stand for Z axis in both designs seems to flexible for mee. I want something strudiest. For now I thinking to made stand as inverted U to span from left to right made from HRS 25mm x 50mm (1" x 2") welded together with lots of webs and inside poured with concrete to dampen resonances. For beed I thinking to just use 25mm X 25mm HRS welded in net pattern and with Z bridge and again poured base with concrete. (I intend to pour concrete in all pipes in machine as it's proven to dampens a loot of resonances. But I will do that after 1'st run.)

Any sugesstion ?

[slavkok]

... the top plate (see foto on previous post where you see piece of MDF) I intend to put aluminum 10mm thick. I don't yet have solution how to clamp jobs. Till now I use vise (seen on drill press in previous post) and clamps seen on photo. Vise is good when can be used, but clamps sucks. It's ussable only for wood or printed circuit boards. Some idea? How the other's clamp jobs? Vacuum table seems bad for here but is ussable for biger one machine for wood carving.

[slavkok]

Ahh.. Forget to say. When I'm boored then I can finish the stepper controller too. It's L6207 / AT90S2313 based. I have 42V powersource capable to deliver 1A on all motor phases. The input is opticaly coupled to the printer port on old laptop runing TurboCNC.

[slavkok]

...
Just make motor mounts and thunderstorm strike...
Again... Climate changes for shure