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#1
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Hello! My name is Eric. I am 16 years old and have been in love with CNC's for a long time. I never knew at my age I could own/build my own CNC machine with decent performance. I would like the thank CNCzone for all the fantastic information and support! In my thread, since I'm new to CNC's, I am going to make this a newbie/build thread. I'll ask questions and build as I go. My build thread here, is going to take place after the CNC instructable for under $600. LINK: http://www.instructables.com/id/How-...-Cheaply-and-/ By following his steps, I am going to get everything he has, but maybe a few things different. My first thought was "what electronics?" From the instructable guide, I decided to go with the Hobbycnc 305oz kit. http://www.hobbycnc.com/products/hob...oard-packages/ I chose the 305oz because for 1: I am not looking for a commercial fast machine. I just want a nice machine to cut a few materials: Wood plastic foam aluminum plaster And what ever other soft materials. I think the 305oz kit should do me good here? My next decision is what cutting motor? The majority of the DIY builders use Routers. The instructable guide, he uses a Dremel tool. The dremel tool may be good for foam and softer plastics and wood, but its not enough torque for what I would want. I can get a router, but, I think I read somewhere you can use a Hand drill. My dad does own a router, but i'm not sure how to chuck the pieces. I will have to look tomorrow. The reason I say a drill, is because I can use the speed variably, and it will be lighter and can mount more cutting tools. Would this be a good idea? The next electronic component is the software. Reading here, I decided to go with the LinuxCNC software. It is a free software that can get me started. The next is the CAD program. I have been looking around and tinkering with some free download software. (Google sketch up) Google seems to be very difficult to me. I just want a 2D software right now that can be used easily. any suggestions? ------------------------------------- This week I am going to gather materials to build the actual machine, I'm looking forward to it and I'm more excited than a fat kid in a candy store |
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#2
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| You're going to be cutting Plaster Eric? I've been considering building a machine to do just that! Casting plaster for metal-casting or for decoration? Are you really more excited than a fat kid in a candy store? (I lol when I read it.....not many non-pc people around these days lmao )
__________________ Keith |
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#3
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| Hi Crawler374, Just a couple of links for you to consider for your project: Motor controllers, http://www.geckodrive.com/product.aspx?c=3&i=14469 Motors, http://www.kelinginc.net/NEMA23Motor.html ( the KL23H284-35-4B ) I know you are looking at LinuxCNC and yes it will get you going but,Mach3 is a must have a look at http://www.machsupport.com/ Look at the support page's a lot of info. CadCam software. For a young chap with no bad habits , soliworks is my recommendation. It will be the best for 3d work ( see if there is a teacher at school to help you learn and get student prices for software) To get you going quickly. Cambam is a great tool as it will produce Gcode that can be imported directy into mach3/LinuxCNC http://www.cambam.co.uk/ A point of importance is the resolution of the feed screws and the backlash. These two things will determine the accuracy of the items you intend to make. Spindle / and cutting . Have a look at this unit http://www.makitafactoryoutlet.com/%...RF1101KIT2.asp The collet size is important as it will dictate what bits you can use. Run out is also issue for fine work. Good luck and dont give up. Paul |
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#4
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I first bought a Taig mill when I started, and have had good luck with the motor and spindle on it. Decent enough power with a 1/3HP motor on it, and fast enough once in a while to use tiny .010" cutters in plastic. I think the spindle is around $100, plus whatever motor you stick on it. Don't know if that fits the budget or not, but they sure are quieter than most routers!And if you're looking for easy to use (and FREE!) 2D CAD software (it'll even do 3D if you want to spend the time), try out emachineshop.com. I tell everyone it's like using Paintbrush compared to Photoshop. Point / click / drag and draw some nice stuff. It'll export files to standard AutoCad .DXF too. (and .STP for 3D) They're business is having people draw stuff with their software and then you send the file to them and they machine it. Probably nice parts come back, but I never actually had them machine stuff, I just use the software. Good luck on the build whichever parts you use, and be sure to post pictures! |
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#5
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| SolidEdge has a free 2d cad program that's supposed to be pretty good. Just google Solidedge free 2D
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#6
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Hi Take a look at the Bosch Colt Router, it has variable speed, and it is small, I use one of those and it is very very good choice . I think that no drill its made for long working hours regards Diego |
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#7
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| For that style machine, a laminate trimmer or small router (like the Bosch Colt) would be a good choice. Trying to hang a full sized router on that frame might be asking a bit much, but it's hard to say from the pictures. You definitely don't want a hand drill on there. They're not designed to take the sideways loads that milling will put on them. It looks like several builders have converted from belt drive to lead screws. I don't know their reasoning, but you should consider how you want to drive this machine. Stick with the original plan, or go with screws? I've used the Xylotex and Gecko G203v drivers with good results. The HobbyCNC board will probably serve your needs just fine. Keep in mind that it's a unipolar driver. The 305 oz/in motors also seem well suited to your needs (in terms of speed and torque). Part of that depends on the drive mechanism, but it all seems like very reasonable choices. Have a great time with the build, and document the process for others to learn from and enjoy. Steve |
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#8
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Cool! thanks a lot, I'll look into that. |
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#9
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Yes I am excited!!!! |
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#10
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So how are you using this? Are you drawing on Emachineshop, then transporting to another CAD program then to your CNC? Could you give me a few steps on how to do this? I would like to start getting my software and drawing while I'm waiting on parts. |
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#11
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For simple stuff (square things, circles, etc..) I just draw the part with the Emachineshop software, then use the "contour" feature to make my toolpath around the part. (say I have a 1" circle to cut, from the inside. I'll "contour" inside .0625" for a 1/8" tool, then that becomes my toolpath.) Then I'll just write the G-code by hand. For simple stuff it's not bad. For more complicated stuff, I'll draw and do the same "contour" thing but then export those lines as a .DXF file and then suck it into BobCad to generate the G-code. For what it's worth, I hate BobCad but the sales guys sucked me into it like so many other people... I've tried LazyCam that comes with MACH3, but couldn't figure it out.. |
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#12
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| both of these are free cad and worth looking at , double cad is 2d and cocreate is 3d modeling with limitations on the free version http://www.doublecad.com/Products/Do...0/Default.aspx http://www.ptc.com/offers/tryout/pe2.htm also you can get a free 30 day working demo of shopcam cad/cam http://shopcam.com/ , you can go nuts for a month and post a bunch of code for up coming projects and if you like it then it's cheap enough to buy in the future
__________________ A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! http://cnctoybox.org |
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