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#1
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This weekend I purchased a Freud non-ferrous metal blade. Putting my fears a side I grabbed the WD-40 and some clamps. After clamping the 1/2 x 3 aluminum bar to the chop saw, I started cutting. The finished cut was fantastic; I just went slow and made sure the WD-40 was being used to lube the blade. After the bar I trimmed up some 1530 series 80/20 with the same results, I should have purchased one of these when I first started this project! |
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#2
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| Was this a blade with the laser cut squiggly slots filled with a rubbery compound to dampen vibration? (Excuse the highly technical terms. )With the material correctly clamped and the blade fed at a sensible speed you can get a very good finish and very good precision with a chop saw.
__________________ An open mind is a virtue...so long as all the common sense has not leaked out. |
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#4
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#5
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| I can't say what Drools is using for a blade, but the P410 is a general purpose combination blade with Hi-ATB (alternating top bevel). This will certainly cut aluminum, but the high bevel is not ideal for that purpose. My Freud non-ferrous blade is a D1080N, which is a TCG (triple chip grind) with a negative rake angle. This is more typical of (soft) metal cutting blades. I've left this in my chopsaw, because it also works well for crosscutting wood. About $60 online. Steve |
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#7
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| They have it on amazon too. Thanks for the info. I have a cut off saw and it did terrible with the big disc I bought for it. It would melt the metal and leave behind a kind of smudged finish. |
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#9
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| Interesting that you mention "hot chips" I did not find that a problem with the D1080N, the negative angle on the cutting teeth help to reduce heat. I used the same plade to cut 2" plastic without a hint of melting. I have seen some saying that just reversing a fine cut blade works to but I do not like the idea of reversing a saw blade. |
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