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#1
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Well, i started to build my cnc about 4 months ago. I started with a wood/skate bearing/ rack and pinion design. However, i have a small buissness making car and home audio speakers, and i decided I needed somethig a little more robust. I settled on a 80/20 machine. I am using a probotix 4 axis kit. (2) 400 oz steppers on dual lead screws o the x, (1) 400 oz on the y, and a 240 oz on the z axis. I am using 5 start, 2 turns per inch 1/2" acme screws on the x and y, and a single start, 10 turns per inch n the z. Travel is about 58" x 32" x 7". Spindle is 3.25 HP porter cable variable speed router. Computer is a Pentium 4, 2.4 gz w/ mach 3 controler. here is a pic of the computer ![]() her is my controls. I am still waiting on one more board as i just recently decided to use dual screws on the x axis ![]() pics of the machine. Its covered in tons of stuff. Hopefully i will get it cleaned up this wekend ![]() ![]() Here Is my mosty compete y/z axis. i am waiting on a love joy connector to finish it off ![]() Here is my router ![]() ![]() here is a vid of my x axis moving. I am going at 200 inches a minute, with half steps. This is as fast as i can get it to go bwfore the screws start to whip ans stall the gantry. the leadscrews are about 55" long, so whipping get to be a problem. My y should be faster due to only having a 36" lead screw |
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#3
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| well, most the parts are from cncrouterparts.com y and z use the short carts, x uses the longer one. same with the nuts, 5 turn on x and y, single start on the z. i spaced uo the gantry on the blocks on the x axis, so the gantry would clear the bearing block, letting me get a few more inches of travel, router mount is the knc i think off ebay. all brackets are custom made from 1/2 inch phenolic that i cut on my cnc at work |
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#4
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| Nik, A great looking machine, and one of the larger ones I've seen using my parts. Looks like you did some interesting things cutting holes in the steel for the bearing blocks. Thanks for all of the great pictures! Best regards, Ahren www.cncrouterparts.com |
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#5
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| yeah, i cut holes in the 1/4" plate ( not an easy task) to let the rails go past the blocks. This let me squeeze every inch of trqvel from the leadscrews. I got the y bolted up now, but i have a fulty motor board, so i can test run it. If i had one request, you should notch the beaqring blocks so the bolts can recess into the blocks, I have somer interfernece issues between the x and y, nothing a grinder couldent fix. Maybe i am just the only person to squeeze so many parts together so close. |
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#6
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| Hey Nik, Thanks for the feedback. I never really intended for anything to travel over the bearing blocks -- that's why I started offering the low profile bearings. However, I could offer counterbores pretty easily in the future. Again, great build! Hope you get your motor sorted out so you can start cutting soon! Best regards, Ahren www.cncrouterparts.com |
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#9
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#10
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| just bumping my thread. I got my electronics sorted out ( probotix has amazning customer support, i mailed them my parts, they replaced 3 motor boards, wired it all up fo rme, and i just paid for shipping.) Anyway, i have about 10 hrs on the machine now. i am using free sheet cam to mach 3. i cut between 80-110 inches per minute with a 1/4" up cut spiral bit. I am very happy with the machine. I need to convet the z to a 10 turn per inch from the 2 turn per ince i am using, just becasue the motor has trouble lifting the router if it gets dusty on the tracks. i need to come up with a dust collector hood. I love the 2 lead screws on the x axis becase it makes it so easy to square up. |
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#11
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| Great build, thanks for posting the video and pictures. I'm going to start ordering the 8020 soon and plan on using your ideas. Hope you don't mind. I like the way you used the vac hose for cable runs, What size 8020 are you using, 1530? george |
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