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#1
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Hey every one, I was wondering if any one can tell me how to mill the ends of a 1/2 acme screw so I can tap for 1/4" thread for my pulleys. I have no lathe or mill and had a quot to have it done for over $100.00 just for like 2" on each screw, too much for my blood. not that I'm cheap just poor. So any way was thinking of using my router with a die grinding bit, any one have any ideas. thanks Graham |
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#2
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| A machine shop that is in buisiness for real has a lot of bills to pay and I can understan the pricing. Most of the money is in the setup of a mchine and it takes some time. If all you need is a hole drilled in the end and then tapped for a 1/4 x 20 thread I could do it for you but I don't know what the shipping both ways would be. Since I will work for food, I will charge the cost of a large pizza and a cold beer. $20 Plus shipping. If you need it to be flatted on one side, same price. If you need something different, send me a PM and we can work it out. Mike.
__________________ Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out. |
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#3
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| Thanks mate I appreciate the offer but I'm sure the shipping will be over $100.00 . I do realize all that goes into the set up and such, was not complaining about the cost just that can't afford it right now, things got really tight, hence the I'll have ta do it my self thing. Thanks again. Graham |
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#4
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Maybe there is a fellow machinist closer to you, say driving distance, who would like to help. I guess the pizza and beer will be on my dime this time. ![]() Mike
__________________ Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out. |
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#5
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| Guess pizza and beer is on your dime mate, sorry. I was wondering what if I made a jig to hold the acme rod and used a end mill in my drill press, I only need to take off 1/8" at 2"long. Would it work? Graham |
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#6
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| Here's how I did it. http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...5&postcount=83 For the next ones, I bought a grinder to do the rough removal.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#7
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. Use the end mill and come straight down and you won't have any problems. The problems occur if you side load the chuck as in side milling, which I dont think you drill press will do as it probably can't do an x-y move.Mike
__________________ Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out. |
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#8
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| Thanks guys for the info, Ger I have already made a jig like that to make my lead nuts using the router the same way you did for the acme. so I gather it will take along time, would my bench grinder work for removing the threads faster than the router? If not then maybe I,ll see if I can borrow one. Another thing I thought of was to make a coupling and use a piece of 5/16 threaded rod and attache it that way. don't know if that would hold. I built the solsylva so it's where the 2 acme rod's attached to pulleys then to the motor pulley.My 8tpi 4 start acme should be delivered tomorrow but ill practice with the standard acme. Graham |
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#9
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Hi Graham. Like this. Easier to do If you can't trun the screw down. Mike http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showpo...6&postcount=38
__________________ Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out. |
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#10
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Probably. The last issue of Shop Notes had a jig in it for doing exactly that.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#12
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| Yes, the thin magazine, sister publication to Woodsmith.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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