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DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here!


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Old 07-09-2008, 10:34 PM
 
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Build #2: 3 axis open table, Baltic birch

From following bought plans on the 1st build, I was unsatisfied with alot of stuff. But I learned enough to know how things work, etc. So starting my 2nd build using my own design this time. I scrapped the DIY skateboard bearings, etc and using precision bearings. Also decided to use Baltic birch for the majority of the build

The Z axis will have fully supported 1/2" linear rods/bearings. The other axis will have (unsupported) 3/4" rods/bearings. Will be using 4x 269oz motors (2 for the X axis) on a 5 axis board (potential future 4th axis upgrade), 1/2" 10 acme threads with CNC Dumpster anti-backlash nuts. Will be roughly 16"x16"x9" cutting size.

I'm finished most of my Z axis. The Y axis bearings mounts is integrated into the Z axis to maximize strength and minimize wasted space and materials (ie: instead of "attach part A to part B", why not design both as one unit from the beginning). The carriage is about 10" wide to give you proportion ideas. Any feedback/comments welcome
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Old 07-12-2008, 04:46 AM
 
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Looks to me like you'll have a bit of flex from those unsupported rails, can you alter that design anyhow?
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Old 07-12-2008, 06:24 AM
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Use 1/2-8 2 start instead of 1/2-10, you'll get double the speed.
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:48 PM
 
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tajord: How exactly do you mean I'll have flex on the unsupported rails? The bearings for those aren't installed in the pictures. The bearings are supported by 2 layers thick 3/4" Birch ply (will be 95% enclosed inside the ply) with a 3.5" space in between them. I haven't made the X or Y axis yet. I'd liek to know if I missed something. Thanks
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Old 07-12-2008, 12:56 PM
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Unsupported rails always flex. But it may be acceptable due to the short axis lengths.
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Old 07-12-2008, 01:00 PM
 
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I looked at your first image where i saw the rods behind the z carriage, the holes in the back didn't look like it'll be carrying those open type linear bearing blocks like the ones you got for the z axis, and with the size of your carriage along with the weight of the router and the forces applied as the machine go might subject it to a "bit" of flex, not trying to be a critic here.
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Old 07-12-2008, 01:00 PM
 
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Oh ok, I knew they're not as great compared to fully-supported rail. But I can't redesign the precision rails/bearings I bought so can't do anything about that. That's also why I went with a thicker 3/4" rails, and also only 24" long each. Because of my budget, I can't afford fully-supported rails all through-out (just got a good deal for the Z axis). The X and Y won't have an open type bearing. They're definitely a great improvement from my DIY skate bearings still. I appreciate your feedback
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Old 07-12-2008, 01:02 PM
 
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Originally Posted by ger21 View Post
Unsupported rails always flex. But it may be acceptable due to the short axis lengths.
this too i took into consideration, that's why i stressed on a "bit".
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Old 07-14-2008, 05:10 PM
 
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I think so far what you have in the pics looks good. Did you epoxy the wood, seal it or is that fiberglas?
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Old 07-15-2008, 01:54 AM
 
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It's sealed right now. Also just glued but about to put screws on specific locations. I'm just about done designing the Y axis so I can finally continue the build, so more progress coming soon.
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Old 07-28-2008, 11:35 PM
 
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slow progress but progress nonetheless. Here's most of the Y axis finished. Will be doing the X axis soon and how the X + Y will be attached.

My plan will be to have the Y + Z parts (pictured) to be securely bolted onto the two X axis so it can be unbolted for transportation/storage. But will also have an adapter section in between them; so with the adapter on, the Z axis will have maximum cutting height above the table, and when removed it'll have a maximized cutting capacity below the table.
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