2 brothers first build

[joe kilo]

after probaly to much research we off and flying on our build. i had to do few things before we started. like get all my manual machines working. I built a ponied phase converter to get my bridgeport mill up and running. i also after much work was able to resurface the ways on my atlas tooling lathe. Por 15 is a great polymer. And thanks to my step father for some very nice percision cuts on wood. after studying all these routers i guess you could call ours a holy gyro joe. we will have a full 4ft by 2ft of cutter travel using 1/2x10 single start acme screws. I'm showing the epoxy nut block i poured released great with a carnuba wax agent, though I am also messing with delrin at this time now. 5 foot long skate bearing x axis 30 inch surplus linear ball y guide on 1 inch shafts. the z not shown yet is surplus thompson 24 inch guide rail cut in half for 6 inch of travel, gives my two axis. always got to be thinking of the next machine, im obsessed. I am waiting for my 370 oz motors and 302v geckos which will all be here by friday, yahooowe. needless to say lots of errors and miss calculations have happened, but we will over come all. been taking lots of pics and will keep with the updates. they will be done.joe

[wcarrothers1]

That stage looks good. Similar to the thompson 16 I used on mine. How ever.. I strongly suggest you use the support bracket some where in your design even if you only support the middle of the linear rod and support the bracket from the back. I used 1" rod on mine that was some 60" long (each rod) and with out support when the gantry would be in the center it would sag or twist. even with your tubes being shorter it will still twist probably more then you will expect with out support.

Since it looks like you have the center support bracket in that other odd piece you have sitting in the picture I'd suggest you include it. Even if you don't also brace it to something on the back it will go a long way to makeing the gantray not twist up.

b./

[joe kilo]

we are definetly going to brace it good. I have posted some more pics, kind of grouped things together. my homemade acme tap, motor couplings, and our bored hole of 3 1/2 inches for the router. Let me also say this remote start caveman rotary converter works sweet, who needs fancy electronics. I have also thrown in a pic of our leadscrew bearing supports, hoping to be able to draw screw nice and tight. no whipping please. The big thing with me is I see it and i want to do it. I was looking at some of the anti racking cabling going on, I wonder if we can rack any weight bias off the y axis to help eliminate any weight related sag.hummm. Time to start looking for power supply parts. later guys. joe

[CarveOne]

joe kilo,

I like the construction of your table base design so far. Simple and beefy.

One thing you may want to consider, is before it gets too heavy flip it on one end, drill a 4" deep hole in the center of each leg, and install a large flange T-nut or brass threaded insert in each hole for adjustable feet. This allows leveling the table for squareness on any part of the shop floor that you move it to. You may not need to use it, but it's much easier to provide for it now in case you need to use them later.

You can buy the feet or make them from all-thread rod, nut, and large washer. Tack weld the nut and washer to the all-thread rod with the washer at the bottom. Or use 3/16" or 1/4" steel plate squares and thread a hole in the center for the all-thread then tack weld it to the all-thread rod.

CarveOne

[jasonkilo]

Pics look great Joe.

Jason

[joe kilo]

thanks for feet advice I 'm thinking of something beefy I don't want the machine to giggle on flimsy feet. may even mount angle iron toes and bolt them to the ground, oh ya. posting work from this weekend, got my gecko's and motors. Our router clamp mount turned out excellent were just using mdf for now we can change later to aluminium if needed, I figure if things go crazy at first it will just snap the mdf. but we don't think like that! I concocted some type of homemade wear adjuster for the y axis nut, olny time will tell if it works. these motor mount blocks are of gods greatest woods,POPLAR. with poplar you can suck a screw right through it if you want, these blocks are milled true on the brigeport. got my delrin nuts on the z axis and my geckos waiting to mounted. now my question. power supply for 3 2.5 amp series motors geckos says 1/3 he rating is this not 2.5 amp draw for the three, and would a rectified to 34 volt 3.8 amp supply do. I also have the option of 48 volts at 4.1 amps with other stuff will either work an is one better then the other. almost time to get the mach sofware. later joe