Delrin T Linear Guide Systems

[Moondog]

Hello guys...

Did a search on this forum, not much info or discussion on these Linear guides.

How suitable are these Linear guides for wood routers...

cheers

[svenakela]

I would say very.
I've been in contact with the general agency here and was actually very close to use their guides on my machine, but I've decided to use another solution. My brother constructed a bunch of robots at his work with Drylin and they work excellent with heavy loads.

Cheers,
Sven

[biddaddyg]

Moondog,
They work great! I have been using them for some time now and have several machines out there with them on. Like anything, keep the track clean (nothing that you would not do for other types) and if all else fails, change the bearing for $5.00. But like I said, been using them for some time now and they are working great. I am in the middle of building a machine this weekend and if I get a chance I will post a few pics. I have 1000mm rails on this one (about 36" total travel) with a dual rail system. Could not be happier with the preformance or the price.
Good Luck
Glen

[ynneb]

Good post Moondog, I think at those prices I might give them a try myself.

I went to the Drylin site http://igus.bdol.com/drylin.asp and it looks like a good cheap substitute for conventional linear bearings.

This page shows it well http://igus.bdol.com/dwflash.asp

I guess there is still the problem of overcoming the mindset that bearings are better than bushes. But with todays technology I am open minded.

[Moondog]

Hello Svenakela, biddaddyg & Ynneb.

Thanks for your response.

I agree we've always been brought up to thinking that bearings are better. In some they may be. When I started pricing THK style bearings & rails for all 3 axis I was shocked to know it would cost around $6,000. If I was building a $100k+ machine and needed precision to the thou I wouldn't hesitate.

The guy said that there accuracy is not quite the same as the THK style but he aslo said that over a 3000mm travel I could still expect accuracy of better that .01mm. I can live with that.

They are easily adjustable, replacement parts are cheap and there load bearing is even greater.

I think I'll order mine next week.

cheers.

PS Ynneb.. Start building my bench next week and will order my Servos and drives this week. Just waiting for a reply from Rutex.

[ynneb]

Moondog, I see you are learning that word "Compromise". I have learned in my short time doing CNC, that if you are building to a budget then most of your time is spent working out compromises.

I remember having this sick feeling while building my machine. I was wondering if all my compromises were going to compound into a wasted effort. If you spend time ( Like you are ) looking at alternative ideas, and weighing up their pros and cons, you will finish up with a good machine at a fraction of the price of what you could have paid.

Am I sounding like the wise old grandpa here? Sorry

Did you find a local supplier for these bushings? I have written away to them to see if they sell them in OZ. Hey I even suggested been a dealer for them here if they didn't already have one.

[Moondog]

Ynneb..

Sorry should have posted dealer details.

www.treotham.com.au they even have a Melbourne office.

Ph# 9555 4890

Ring them and they will send you a catalogue for Igus. I rang yesterday and the it arrived this morning. Good indication of service.

They also have lots of other equip as well.....

Compromise is a dirty word, but I'm slowly getting used to it.

Well gramps... check them out...lol..

cheers

[ynneb]

Two more things Moondog,

I suggest you open up a log page on this site and make all your machine posts in the log. This way others can see your progress and help you along the way. The advantage with a log is that others don't have to remember all your posts around the place. They have it all together.

I meant to say to you earlier. When you start to weld, make sure you don't do any welds where you may need to tune your work. When I made my machine I bolted everything together. The holes I drilled were bigger than the bolts. This way I could fine tune everything, and do a final weld when everything was just right. Nothing can be worse than trying to undo a weld. I am so convinced with this method. Obviously there are many things that can be welded that don't need tuning. Most of the support frame etc. When welding the top part of frame, just make sure you get the left and right rail as level and parallel as possible. Don't be over anxious about the actual cutting table support rails been a little bit out. When you put on the sacrificial sheet of MDF you can use your machine to mill the whole surface parallel with the cutting tips travel.

[unterhaus]

ynneb,
when you say open a log page, do you mean start a new post?
Thanks,
Eric

[ynneb]

You can start a log page here.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/forumd...e=&forumid=209
Yes I mean start a new thread. This will become your thread dedicated to your project. Just dont call it "My first router" Be creative.

Also since you have an ability to find local suppliers, can you post any relevant links into our Aussie link list here http://www.cnczone.com/modules.php?s...iewlink&cid=15

[Moondog]

thanks Ynneb.

I mentioned to you before that I have a friend who will help me build the table and gantry. He's a fittner & turner by trade etc and a crack welder. He sid we'll have the table done in a day or so. As you said the most important thing is to have the 2 main rails perfectly aligned. I will also do the sacrifical MDF thing.

With the Drylin rails what size would you recommend for the different axis'. I was thinking the 25 mm for the X, and maybe the 20mm's for the Y & Z?...

I'll start a log as well and post the supplier to the Aussie thread. Even some photos...

Read the Mach 2 manual and the Rutex manuals over the weekend... wow... I am confused with these electrics... I know there are plenty of people, yourself included that can help me with this so I'll cross that bridge soon.