Can I machine something with a drill press?

[Kev]

Hello guys

I took 2 pieces of extruded aluminum angle bolted them togeather and expected them to create a nice flat square bracket but this was not the case. So I guess I need to machine the aluminum 90º angle so it will be flat.

Can I do this with a small (sears 2/3 hp 10 in. press) drill press? I have a cross slide vise so that will help. Anyone done this before with any success?

Also how would you make the bits? Can you just cut a regular drill bit off?

Thanks

Kev

[wcarrothers1]

Typicaly a standard drill press is not made to take lateral loads (side loads) on bits and maintain accuracy. mills are not just like drill presses in this way.

I'd suggest using a disk sander as a low tech way to square up cut extruded.

Regular drill bits will not cut like end mills would...

If I need to square up a cut piece I either use a disk sander or my bridge port or round pole mill. Some day I hope to get a cold saw that can cut stuff like that clean and square from the start.

b./

[JROM]

If you try to use a drill press to side mill a part you will KILL the part and the drill press! Drill presses are designed to only take vertical loads, any side loads will kill the bearings in a very short time. Also twist drills will not side cut. If you try this be sure you have lots of saftey equipment on because you will probabley get to wear all or part of your project! Do your self a favor and go take a metalworking class somewere!

[Mcgyver]

JROM, good advice. also, the drill chuck is liable to come lose with side load. this topic has been covered to death, you can search the forums for more coverage. lacking a mill, or maybe even with a mill, the right tool for the job is a file. You can do very accurate work with a file. As with woodworking hand tools, it will remove material exactly where it is instructed to. just takes some care to give the instructions properly.

[martinw]

Dear Kev,

It doesn't work. I've tried a couple of times and it was a complete disaster. If you want to mill aluminium flat, you can get reasonable results with a router, TC aluminium cutter, and some jigs. You can slot and profile too if you take really light cuts.


Best wishes

Martin

[sansbury]

My first thought is to take out my square, go back to the metal shop, and find a piece of good angle. It depends on how flat/square you need it to be. If you need it kinda square, and it's not too big a piece, the file will work fine. If you need it really true, then you'll have to be careful with the file and take your time and make sure you don't crown it. Personally I prefer to let the factory make something flat, square, or round if I can help it.

[dertsap]

if your brave and carefull you could probably use a table saw , ,ive been cutting 3/8 plate and upwards of 1" thick stock with my saw and have no problems , just wear safety glasses and use a carbide tip blade , you'll find the stuff cuts well

ear plugs may be helpfull

[rustamd]

table saw or chop saw with right blade works very nicely, just make sure to wear long sleeve shirt and safety classes, it puts out a hole lot of chips, fast

[Kev]

Thanks guys for the help

I'll scrap the drill press idea. But you have given me some good ideas to try thanks

Kev

[martinw]

Originally Posted by dertsap if your brave and carefull you could probably use a table saw , ,ive been cutting 3/8 plate and upwards of 1" thick stock with my saw and have no problems , just wear safety glasses and use a carbide tip blade , you'll find the stuff cuts well ear plugs may be helpfull

I'd be very, very careful cutting aluminium on a tablesaw. I think you have to use the correct blade and hold the workpiece very firmly on the table.
The only time I tried I had carbide tips spraying in my face and a ruined extrusion. It may have been that the aluminium was too thin, I do not know.

Yes, it can be done, and lots of people do. After my experience, I don't.

BTW, a negative hook blade on a chop saw works well.

Best wishes,

Martin

[Geof]

Originally Posted by martinw I'd be very, very careful cutting aluminium on a tablesaw. I think you have to use the correct blade and hold the workpiece very firmly on the table...

Good advice. The correct blade is a 'triple chip' type. It will be labelled as suitable for non-ferrous metals or aluminum. Look for one that has the vibration damping slots cut in the blade and filled with an elastomeric material; these work like a charm to both reduce the noise and give a much smoother finish.

And do wear protective equipment: My choice is a lab coat put on backwards with a full face mask coming down below collar level. This way you do not get a hot chip down your neck distracting you from guiding the cut carefully.

Brush cutting fluid along the planned cut line; if you don't have any then automatic transmission oil, Dextron ATF, is an excellent substitute.

For thin material a good idea is to cut a piece of plywood partway through and clamp or screw it to the table and then cut your material on the plywood. This means there is almost no gap between the blade and the plywood supporting the work so it does not get dragged down.

Be very careful using the fence; my preferred method if possible is to have a helper so that as soon as the material is cut through you can just stop advancing it and let the helper turn the saw off while you hold the two separate pieces in place until the saw stops. Trying to slide the piece between the blade and the fence out past the blade can result in severe vibration and grabbing by the blade.

[martinw]

Dear All,

Sound advice, but I'm still not going to try it on a table saw. My experience scared me off for all time. I also have a vague suspicion that the almighty bang might have damaged the bearings on my Powermatic 66. Maybe that is just "post-traumatic stress syndrome" . It was about 15 years ago though, and scared the hell out of me.

Anyway, much later, and after some convincing on the Zone , I did try chopsaw cuts with a non-ferrous blade. Works a treat, but obviously, the length of cuts are limited . The canny man at DeWalt advised covering the air intakes of the motor with stockings (UK) or pantyhose (North America). It stops the swarf getting into the guts of a universal motor. I believe most large table saws have TEFC ( totally enclosed fan cooled) motors which do not require this precaution.

BTW, as Geof suggested, use a full face visor and the rest. Aluminium swarf in your eye hurts. Yes indeed.

Keep cutting safely...

Best wishes,

Martin