GoPackGos' 1st CNC Router

[gopackgo]

I started gathering parts last November and I finished it this week. I did my 1st test cut in styrofoam last night. I used Stepperworlds FET 3 controller and stepper motors. Rustle at Stepperworld has been very resposive to my questions and problems.(Bad power supply,he sent me a new one).
Now I have to decide on which software setup to use, so far it is Kcam.

[gopackgo]

On the X axis I used nickle plated gas pipe, sold as decorative ceiling fan conduit at any home supply store. I bought mine at Menards, I think they are reasonably priced. Instead of rollerblade bearings I used cam followers I bought on ebay for a dollar each. The Y and Z are THK also from ebay. You can tell that the THKs are much higher quality and move nicer than the X.
I learned alot building it, would of done some things differently, but so far it works even better than I hoped for. Now I have alot more to learn on the CAD/CAM side of things.

[Ken_Shea]

Nice work gopackgo, aint it nice when things finally come together. Would like to see some close up shots on your drive system if you have them.
Ken

[arvidb]

Well done! I too would like to see more shots. What softwares are you using?

(Oh, will I ever get there...? :-/ )

Arvid

[ynneb]

Youve done well gopackgo.
Good effort.

[gopackgo]

Thanks for the positive responses. Right now I'm using Kcam but am having some trouble enabling the Y axis with it. The only way I got it working is by using pin 14 for enabling both the X and Y axis.
So if I get a faster computer (233 mhz) I'll try some other programs. I do like things about Kcam such the way it turns my router on and off as needed.
Travel
X has 26"
Y has 13"
Z has 3"

I used 1/2 10 Acme for the drive screws with homemade anti backlash nuts. It feeds reliably at 12" per minute and of course I do want to get that speed up. The only tools I used building it other than the usual hand tools are a drill press and my jig saw with metal cutting blades.

[gopackgo]

Another Photo

[gopackgo]

I also used 1/2 OD plastic air line as conduit for all my wires. At the junction point of the electrical boxes I used 1/2 OD X 1/2 NPT pnuematic fittings, which I deburred on the inside, because some of the where sharp.
To control the router I have an Opto 22 relay in a seperate junction box. It's nice because it turns the router on and off automatically and isolates my stepper control board from the high voltage of the router.

[gopackgo]

Another Photo

[gopackgo]

The gold painted frame is made from a bed frame I found in the garbage. It's 1 1/4" x 1 1/4" x 1/4" angle iron, all bolted together because I don't have access to a welder. The paint is hammertone gold which is pretty cool when it dries, but it's kind of brittle so it chips easily.
There are angle iron leveling pads on each leg. I used metric bolts for leveling because they seem to have finer threads and I happen to have some metric taps at home because I've been layed off from my job since December, so my tool boxes are at home,too much GW.

[gopackgo]

The couplings are Lovejoy 3 piece units which I have used at work for years with excellent results. I was suprised to find how cheap the were, less than $10.00 each 3 piece set. Since they are 3 parts , 2 hubs and a rubber spider, I ordered 1 hub with a 3/8" hole for the stepper and 1 hub with a 1/2" hole for the 1/2" 10 acme thread. I didn't have to machine the thread at all. They are listed under the name flexible couplings in the Mc Master Carr online catalog.

[gopackgo]

Another Photo. This is the the table with no styrofoam on the table, and the back of the Y and Z axis. The black thing in the background with a knob sticking in the air is an old Craftsman bandsaw. It kind of looks like part of the CNC machine in the photo.
The table is 3/4" MDF with a hardwood veneer, which I stained and shellaced with some stuff I had available.