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#1
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| I've been looking at commercial pillow blocks, and rail mounts, and determined that they are way to expensive for what they are. I am thinking that with access to a mill, it should be pretty easy to make my own. I'm concerned about hitting the ID of the pillow block for the correct fit to the bearing though. Has anyone built their own blocks and inserted a commercial bearing? Zeph |
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#2
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| If this counts... ![]() Eric
__________________ I wish it wouldn't crash. |
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#3
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| That looks cool. Is it as simple as turning down the end of the shaft to a precise dia. (+/- 0.001" or so) then sliding on a thrust bearing, inserting it in to the block, and sliding on the other thrust bearing? I've seen where one person uses a ny-lock nut to hold the thrust bearings on, how are you doing it? Should the bearings be so tight you have to chill the rod and heat the bearings to get them on? Zeph |
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#4
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| I just finished boaring my bearing holes in my new CNC router. It is very easy with a boaring head attachment for a mill. Go to Enco or MSC
__________________ Thanks Jeff Davis (HomeCNC) http://www.homecnc.info (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#5
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| It's actually just a delrin block drilled for a tight fit holding two regular ball bearings. The acme rod was turned to 5/16" and that's a 5/16 nylock nut that holds it all in there. It actually works great for my aplication. (just a cnc hobby wood router). Eric
__________________ I wish it wouldn't crash. |
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#6
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| Do you mean bearing holder blocks and rail support for round shafting and bearings? I'm in the process of making some now. I think you can come up with some fairly good ones using aluminum, derin, uhmw or pvc. If nothing else, a good oak or maple would make a bearing holder or shaft support that would last years. Standard woodworking tools suffice. It helps if you have a drill press. Shaft supports can be as simple as taking a flat square of material and drilling a hole the size of the OD of the shaft (sized for a tight fit) and mounting it on the inside wall at each end of your machine. A larger rectangle shaped block, fashioned the same way and then split along one side and drilled for nuts and bolt (to close/secure the split portion) will hold a round linear bearing tightly and offer easy removal and numerous mounting and/or taping options. Keep it simple and make it sturdy and it'll work great! Sorry if this wasn't what you meant, or is info you already knew, but want to pass on that you don't have to spend the big bucks to make this stuff work accurately. It may not look as pretty, but it works! Once you have a working machine, use it to make your fancy parts! -Marc |
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#7
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| I can use a square hollow metal bar as the housing for the pillow block. Use any round bearing. You can even use the ball-bearing-less bearings which are the cheapest as compared with ball bearing types. You can drive a screw into the metal bar which makes contact with the bearing to secure the bearing within the metal bar housing. I saw a picture of this in itemamerica.com. Here is the picture. However, instead of using a plain hollow square metal bar as the housing, it uses a piece of aluminum extrusion that is precut. This setup would be the least expensive, fastest done, with most accuracy that I can think of. I'm sure there are cheaper ways but they would not be accurate. See the picture to see what I am talking about. The only problem is that it might not readily work with rails that support the round rod. But maybe there is a way around that. Here is the picture found at: http://home.mminternet.com/~georgeb/item_bearing2b.bmp Maybe someone can include this in a message. It is a big file. |
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#8
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| The picture that georgebarr posted is just one step shy of the ideal bearing support. It only has a set screw on one side. If you drill and tap all four sides you have what is a (very) basic 4 jaw chuck! All your end plate alignment problems evaporate. And, thinking about it for a moment, you could probably do something similar on the table drive plate too. Then radial adjustments of the nut as fine as frog hair are easy .robotic regards, Tom |
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#9
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| where would one get aluminum extrution like the one in the photo above? I have been looking on the net for the stuff.
__________________ My little piece of the web! http://users.adelphia.net/~wjdupont |
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#10
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| To answer your question about aluminum extrusion, you can find some at http://8020.net, http://itemamerica.com (expensive), and http://www.futuraind.com. |
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#11
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| Boy that looks like the cats meow! you could build a whole machine out of that stuff. even the slides!
__________________ My little piece of the web! http://users.adelphia.net/~wjdupont |
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#12
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__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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