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#1
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HI I AM PLANNING ON STARTING CONSTRUCTION ON MY DIY CNC AND I WAS WONDERING WHAT SCREWS TO USE FOR MDF, AND IF I NEED TO MAKE PILOT HOLES IN BOTH MATING PARTS OR JUST THE ONE ON THE OUTSIDE? |
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#3
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| I even predrilled and countersunk for every hole. Easy to do...it only takes a little bit of forethought. I used standard "drywall" screws, but there are specialty screws for drywall if you want to use them. For right angle connections, there are RTA connectors, including several that use a cam arrangement to make things really good and tight. -- Chuck Knight |
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#4
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| Wood screws and MDF are not a good combination, because the wood screws are tapered and even with a pilot hole MDF can be prone to split. MDF doesn't have much strength in this area. As Chuck said "drywall" screws are better. Also place a clamp on the sides of the MDF beside the hole/screw when drilling and installing the scres, this further prevents the MDF from splitting. Good luck Hager Hay |
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#5
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| I used drywall screws on my particle wood laminate. Make sure you use pilot holes. Clamp first so you don't get pieces between it. Or you might want to counter sink one piece in between to give it a relief for tear out after you drill. Chris
__________________ Chris |
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#6
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| What thickness is the MDF? If it's a decent size, I may suggest a different approach and use tapserts. These are available in both, friction (press) fit and also screw in. They are small brass inserts which I believe are available in M4 - M12 inc. I use a lot of M6 screw types. They need an appropriate sized hole drilled to accept the insert, the press fit ones just push in, while the screw type obviously are screwed in and create their own thread. Most good specialist fastener suppliers should either stock or get them. Advantage - the tapsert provides a permenant thread in the MDF, while woodscrews can often 'strip' their own thread. Removal of woodscrews can often leave MDF very 'wooly' and loose a secure fixing, while tapserts provide a re-usabel thread. Disadvantage - requires a larger hole to accept the tapsert, which sometimes may not be available in thinner materials. Worth a try ! Last edited by krsykes; 04-23-2004 at 03:48 PM. |
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#8
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| Folks, Additional info at: http://www.lungster.com/l/speakers/mdffaq/mdf.html#Q14 and http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/etip0090800sn.html ------------------------------------------------------ Tom Last edited by tomarnold; 04-24-2004 at 05:23 AM. |
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#10
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| Being a carpenter and cabinet maker by trade, I usually purchase all my custom cabinetry screws from Rockler and here is a link to what you are looking for. Although they are designed for particle board they are idealy used for MDF as well. Tom http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...ferings_id=652 http://www.cabinetmart.com/69-6350C.html the specs for drilling http://www.rockler.com/tech/30601-627.pdf
__________________ ...He who makes no mistakes makes nothing! ... Tom Last edited by tpworks; 04-26-2004 at 04:35 PM. |
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#11
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| You could save a lot of money buying from somewhere other than Rockler. Try http://www.wwhardware.com .
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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