Router spindle for cutting aluminum

[LeeWay]

I do use a 1/4" end mill in my PC 690 router. This end mill is specifically for aluminum. I cut tailhooks for my product out of .063" aluminum sheet in one pass. 5052 is what I normally use, but I like to use the 6061 or 63. It isn't as gummy. I also have a router speed controller hooked up, but don't actually use it. Haven't needed to yet. I do have to be vigilant with WD40 though. I spray the ful sheet. Then every time the router lifts to move to the next part, I spray the part where it will cut. This does keep down the gumming.
I like the Crisco idea and I have thought about just applying a coat of bearing grease on the sheet. I think though that when cutting multiple parts, this would be more detrimental than helpful. The swarf would pile up right where you would be cutting through next. The WD40 seems to clear all the swarf just before each cut. I say swarf, but its actually little tiny aluminum needles.

[austin.mn]

i do a fair amount of aluminum cutting with my router. i haven't tried the crisco method.... i use a mist coolant sprayed out of an cheap airbrush gun. for cutouts i use an 1/8th inch straight cut router bit, i have used several different bits over the past year, but for my money the cheapie straight bit from the home center is just fine. i have to sand and polish all of my parts anyway, and the edges sand pretty quick. i had used some bits that gave an excellent finish, but broke to easy, they were carbide. you may want to stick with hss bit because they will flex a little more than carbide without breaking. i use a porter cable router, it has .005 runout. i have decided that the runout is in the collets, and seems standard with pc collets. the tappered bore on the router is under .001 for runout. i believe that this extra runout is the reason that the carbide bits break.

i think that i will try the new ridgid router from home depot it looks like it has a real nice collet that will run true. then i may be able to run the good bits.