Stupid tool question

[radio-op]

Kcoaks, I took a couple pixs of the drill fixture so you can get an idea what I was talking 'bout. Hope this helps.
Bill

[whiteriver]

Wohaaa. Thats organized..

Donny

[radio-op]

And with the drill mounted. (What a mess, but if I cleaned I'd never find anything!)

[kcoaks]

Bill,

Thanks for the pics, now I understand. I do have a question, however. You said you'd chuck the rod and use a file to turn down the ends. One end is several feet away and none too stable, I'd assume, and the other end is in the drill. Am I misinterpreting (that's just so rare for me )?

[kcoaks]

Donny,

No e-mail on my end.
I work down the street from CDA power tool, maybe I'll stop in on my way home. I'll have to look up AR and Bixbie as well. This may end up being a busier weekend than I thought!

[kcoaks]

Donny - never mind, I got the e-mail!

[whiteriver]

k.C.
Check your PM. I sent you one back on the 4th and one today. Are they getting them.

Donny

[radio-op]

kcoaks , yes you right but I use a rod about 1 1/2 longer then needed, then apply the file up near the chuck. After I bring it down to size, cut off the part that was in the chuck. It wastes a little but works for me. If you need to mill both ends, just allow enough to chuck the rod on both ends. The biggest problem I have with the drill motor is the runout and wobble at the chuck, I have found that my drill press works out better.
Bill

[kcoaks]

Bill,

This is why I'm the newbie and you're the guy with a working mill.

K.C.

[mvaughn]

You probably arleady know this, but it would also be a good idea to make a simple bearing block for the rod your turning. Make it out of a a chunk of wood or delrin. Clamp it to the drill press table and position it so it contains the free end of the rod. You don't want to damage the rod, or worse yourself, by having it whipping around.

[kcoaks]

Thanks for the heads up. My ability to look ahead for such things is not so great .