Router Collet question

[Glidergider]

I have a Hitachi 2.25 hp router. It works great but I have a question about the collet. When I change bits, it takes a good hard twist to free the collet and get it turning. After I get the initial pre-load broke, the bit will not come loose. I have to continue loosening the collet nut until it hits another sandbar and I have to get the wrenches out again and apply more twisting/loosening torque. Then the bit falls free.

Is this normal for all collets? Sort of like a sand bar at the beach. The collet will loosen but then it runs a ground again, and I have to apply a second torquing action to get the bit out.

[Madclicker]

It's normal on good collets. That second resistance is the nut pulling the collet out of compression. On cheap collets you often have to tap the nut to break the compression.

[Glidergider]

Thanks for the feed back. I was also wondering if anybody lubricates the threads on the collet. Probably not since the second torquing action is normal.

[bp092]

Same thing for me. Easiest way to get around it? get a tool changer from high tech systems, I just did and it was worth every penny!

[Glidergider]

That's interesting input, but I'm so confused about rpm maximums and cost, and other things that I'm sort of paralyzed to take action.

[Glidergider]

You have my attention, so if you want to add some info about the automatic tool changers, I'll be taking notes.

[martinw]

Originally Posted by Madclicker It's normal on good collets. That second resistance is the nut pulling the collet out of compression. On cheap collets you often have to tap the nut to break the compression.

Dear Madclicker,

Excellent information about the two stage process, thank you.

You say that you may need to tap the nut on cheap collets. I have an Italian CMT router, and it has extension collets for use on router tables.

The only way to get the bit out of those collets is to hammer axially on the end of the cutter shank. The CMT dealer has sent replacements, and the problem remains... sexy design, and s##t manufacturing. Those Italian products look good in the magazines though, don't they?


Best wishes,


Martin

[bp092]

I'm actually still setting it up, been so busy lately. It's awesome though.
http://hightechsystemsllc.com/index_files/Page2045.htm

And it isn't even so much about saving time as it is about accuracy and repeat of depths that I wasn't getting when I had to re-zero everything manually every single time. JLT started the automatic part of it, check out his build log for info. He cut the tray in corian and wrote a macro for it for mach 3.

[Glidergider]

Hi 92.
I saw that link before, but I'm confused. Is it $159 for each bit? I'm assuming the biggest cost is the collet replacement, but doesn't each bit have to have a collar? It looks like each collar costs $30. How am I doing?

[ger21]

It comes with 3 toolholders, but no collets. It takes standard ER-16 collets, which run about $20 each. You'll need a tool holder and collet for each tool. Tool holders are $45 each.

Fwiw, on my 4 Porter Cable routers, the bits come out after loosening with a little push and pull by hand. They don't lock in like you're describing.

[sdopp]

Very interesting!
Thanks bp092
Skip

[Glidergider]

Next question. If I upgrade, can I use this quick connect system manually. I'd rather not build the rack just yet.

So, for $159 plus $40 (2 additional collets), I will be setup for 3 of my favorite bits. Roughly $200 will get me three bits and the router spindle setup.