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DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here!


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Old 03-12-2007, 07:15 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 36
snoyce is on a distinguished road
My Rockcliff Build (not quite to plans)

Hi All,

I've been quietly building my router while lurking on here. Would have been finished along time ago if not waiting an extraordinary long time for parts to be delivered (stepper drivers arrived today, ordered 2 1/2 - 3 weeks ago). I ordered the rockcliff parts kit 3 from a company on ebay not sure if im aloud to name them on here but easily searched for. The kit basically contained all the rails, acme threaded rod, linear bearings and pillow blocks, lovejoy connectors nuts for the threaded rods and i also ordered some carriers for the nuts. The kit meant i had to make a few changes along the way but this machine was all about learning the ropes.

Anyway i've been taking photo's along the way and thought i'de share my experiences/mistakes along the way so it will hopefully help someone else in the same way this forum has helped me (pass it on and all that).

This post and attachments are basically day 1 in the build. I added a few of my own ideas for stiffening up the main frame of the machine i'll find out if any of this was a good idea later (comments welcome).

Right working through the attachments......

basedry.jpg-
I boxed in the base and biscuit jointed the parts together (i used biscuits throughout the frame).


bisuitybox.jpg -
For the Y axis back plate i went with a box section again joined using biscuits and glue.


ribsuprights.jpg -
On the uprights for the gantry i joined some ribs to the outsides to add abit of stiffness (hopefully).


biscuity.jpg -
Here you can see the biscuits used to join the gantry uprights to the y axis box section.


framedryfit.jpg -
Here's the frame dry fitted together mainly to check for trueness and because i like to see some progress


day1parts.jpg -
Here are all the parts i completed on day 1 the ribs on the gantry sides are still dry fitted at this point and the base was biscuited glued and clamped then brad nailed to hold it all together whilst drying.
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:17 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 36
snoyce is on a distinguished road
Stage 2

After the initial day building the main frame i was basically waiting on parts (took about 3 weeks due to rush on people ordering those kits) before i could do anything solid. Due to this I done the odd bit here and there and didnt photograph all these steps so theres a bit of a jump from day 1.

Anyway the pictures...

bearingblockinside.jpg
Ok, the kit i bought from ebay included some bearings to support the leadscrews but nothing to hold the bearings so, I didn't think MDF would be man enough to support the bearings so i made some aluminium bearing blocks(luckily i have a lathe) Basically i cut some 2"x2"x1" blocks on my cheap wood chop saw and turned these on the lathe they have a recess each side which is a pretty tight fit for the bearings and i turned down the inside so the whole block will sit in the 25mm holes in the MDF gantry sides i then drilled and tapped the blocks so they could be screwed on from the inside. This one obviously hasnt been tapped yet and has some rough machining marks.


bearingblockoutside.jpg
The outside of the bearing block. I made the outside fit a little looser i honestly cant remember the thinking behind that but im sure it was pointless.


frontz.jpg
Maybe a fair bit to explain here! firstly at the top you can see the bearing block in situ, i turned down the leadscrew so it first fits through the bearings then threaded it so i could add a nut to hold it in place and then turned down the end some more for a tight fit in the lovejoy connector. The block is screwed on from the underside of the mdf. then once i had this in place i measured and made the sections to support the motor (and turned a recess in the top plate to match the lip around the motor shaft and drilled and tapped to connect the motor). Originally I planned to drill and tap the motor support sections to connect them together but i just couldn't drill accurately enough using my cheap old drill press so i used 2 part epoxy to stick it all together this allowed me to align it nicely with worrying about the trueness of the aluminium edges to much (i really want a milling machine). Also of note, i've reversed the z axis compared to the plans because it was the only way i could think of for using the kit parts without reducing any x-y travel the z travel is a different story but i figure how thick a part do i really need to mill. you can also see the rails and the tops of the pillow blocks in this picture more next...


ymotormount.jpg
Here's the y axis motor mount


frontyz.jpg
heres a view along the y axis you can see the bearings & pillowblocks and also the leadscrew nut & carraige on both the y and the z axis.


basex.jpg
Ok, here's my x axis base plate. I have access to a water jet machine that my brother and dad use in their business so i thought i'de blag some time on the machine to do something about holding work down on the bed (i had a lot of time to think about this whilst waiting for the stepper drivers). Basically i cut the bed with the mounting holes for the pillow blocks and leadscrew nut carraige and an array of holes all over the bed which i tapped to m5 so i can use cap screws and clamps i also cut on the water jet (see last 2 pictures). I will make up an MDF spoil board out of thin MDF with a matching array of holes and glue this to the aluminium.


fullmachine.jpg
Here is the full machine in all it's glory! Just the x axis and electronics to finish.


partclampeddown.jpg & partclampeddown2.jpg
Here you can see my waterjet cut bed and clamps and m5 caps screws holding down abit of MDF.

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Old 03-12-2007, 09:23 AM
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: india
Posts: 117
sanjiv is on a distinguished road

its great job
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:31 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: UK
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snoyce is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by sanjiv View Post
its great job
Thanks sanjiv,

As i mentioned the stepper drivers arrived today so i'll post another update soon with the next stage of progress, i'll also add some thoughts on where i went wrong etc in the mean time if you have any questions,tips or comments on things i could change or have blatantly got wrong it would be appreciated.

Cheers

Steve
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Old 03-12-2007, 07:10 PM
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
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gmfoster is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by snoyce View Post
Thanks sanjiv,

As i mentioned the stepper drivers arrived today so i'll post another update soon with the next stage of progress, i'll also add some thoughts on where i went wrong etc in the mean time if you have any questions,tips or comments on things i could change or have blatantly got wrong it would be appreciated.

Cheers

Steve
Looks very nice. What do you supose you have in it when don without the computer?

Hope to see videos of it cutting..
Garry
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Old 03-12-2007, 09:12 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: UK
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snoyce is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by gmfoster View Post
Looks very nice. What do you supose you have in it when don without the computer?

Hope to see videos of it cutting..
Garry
Sorry not sure i understand your question?
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Old 03-12-2007, 10:50 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: United States
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emtffkev is on a distinguished road

I think he means about how much did the machine cost for materials and electronics, minus the computer.....
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Old 03-13-2007, 01:55 AM
 
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Niiice, I really like how you altered this "little" machine, looks like it's gonna be fairly precise too, just keep us posted, interested to hear what performance you'll get with it.
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:18 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: UK
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snoyce is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by emtffkev View Post
I think he means about how much did the machine cost for materials and electronics, minus the computer.....
Ah ok, well as im pretty sure my wife won't read this. Way to much...

bearings,pillow blocks, rails,couplers,leadscrews 310
MDF about £15
Aluminium for bits i had to make around £15
Drivers £83
Motors £56
Assorted Electronics, Wires switches, connectors etc £20

Total £499 or $963 ssshhhhhhh obviously i could have saved alot by not using the parts from Marchant Dice and sticking more to the plans. But the idea is i'm emmigrating to australia pretty soon so i can strip it down for parts and build revision 2 in australia. Although i've already decided the major weak point is the unsupported rails so think ill be sorting that on the next one
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Old 03-13-2007, 03:23 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: UK
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snoyce is on a distinguished road

Originally Posted by tajord View Post
Niiice, I really like how you altered this "little" machine, looks like it's gonna be fairly precise too, just keep us posted, interested to hear what performance you'll get with it.
I'll by putting together the electronics and soldering all the connectors to there cables etc today so should hopefully be cutting near the end of the week.

I'll get some videos of the first cuts and stick em on u-tube.

Steve
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Old 03-13-2007, 05:43 PM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: UK
Posts: 36
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Electronics Question

I've put together all the cabling today. Question? if i give the driver board power with no printer cable attached just the y axis motor i get a hissing noise noise from the motor and it locks tight. Is the normal or should i stop and start wiring again?

Thanks in advance?
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Old 03-15-2007, 05:49 AM
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: UK
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snoyce is on a distinguished road
Working

Wasn't sure about the humming noise from the steppers but took the leap of faith and plugged in the pc anyway and it lives! The z and y axis are now moving i've done some motor tuning and the maximum speed i can get without skipping is about 635mm per minute.

I have had some minor crisis getting this far i broke the aluminium motor mounts clearly epoxy is just not a strong enough bond on aluminium. So i remade the motor mounts in hardwood ( i'll chuck up some pictures soon ). The second crisis was i had the rails slightly misaligned right to left on the y axis with an end result that the leadscrew was binding to the far left of the rails which seems to have slightly bent the leadscrew (noticed a vibration that wasnt there initially). I've chiseled off the rails supports and realigned them now so the binding is cured but think i may order a new y leadscrew and this time machine the trailing end for a support bearing (i'm going to do this on the x axis now).

Steve
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