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#1
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Have you ever tried to improve a working machine only to open a big can of worms and have the machine go down. When I made my 4x4 ft table I used dual 3/4 acme screws on the X axis and two steppers(one on each side) I bought the bronze and a tap to make my own acme nuts.I wasn't sure what size bit to use so the people told me a .600 was correct but the closest they had was a .609 bit so I got it. My machine was working ok with these nuts but I wanted less slop and made new nuts. This time I used a 9/16 bit then bored it out to .585 on the lathe. I don't know why this didn't dawn on me the first time. Now the nuts are much closer but being 1 inch long, any misalignment will cause binding which it did and then the stepper would lose a bunch of steps. I had to realign the entire machine. It took a while but came out well. My acme screws are about 65" long and when turning fast the slop in the nut would worsen the whip of the acme screw and was a little noisy during rapids. Now it's running very smooth. Sometimes slop can be your friend but I still don't like. If you're interested in the table I'm talking about.........It's on page 2 Home made CNC router table update put on March 2. |
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#3
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| Monte, to "tighten your nuts" you should either be slitting them and adding adjustment screws (making two nuts with adjustable spacing) or deliberately mis-aligning them to take out slop. Either way, you should be shooting for at best .001" - .002" backlash. Any less and you will wear the nut too fast. -Jeff |
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#4
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.005 now with an indicater and pushing and pulling on the gantry. What I found is if the tapped hole is too large the acme screw is allowed to move perpendicular to the nuts axis making it sloppy and noisy from excessive whip. Thanks again...........Nick |
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