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#121
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| Pic1: I re-made my other Z truck and installed it. Pic2&3: I then moved onto my Z carriage rails and cut them, they are not attached yet, hence the tape so that I can work with them together. Pic4: I then cut out my Z Mounting Plate and placed it loosley into position to see. Unfortunately I think my Z trucks are not symmetrical but Im going to go with them for the moment and see what happens, I may have to make the one I did today again a fourth time .Pic5: I then went onto the drilling and cutting of the Z Mounting Plate and unfortunately this didn't go well either . Two of my holes blew out. Instead of having to completely start this part again I glued and clamped it, and I'll see tomorrow if its usable, if not then I'll make it again. I didnt use the Gorilla glue because I didn't want expansion into my drill holes.Anyway, thats it for now. Advice on my coupler nut problem is appreciated! Bye for now. |
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#122
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| How hard is it ship something like this to you with all the vats ect. If someone just bought them and sent them as a gift would that work. Garry |
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#123
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More of a chamfher than a real taper.. Garry |
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#124
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| THK, Another possibility would be that you have a problem with thread alignment as I described earlier. But if this was the case, then your tap chasing *should* have corrected it. How difficult would it be to re-weld a set of nuts for just one coupler using the method I described earlier? You don't have to drill & tap from the side, just get them welded together to see if your rod will run all the way through all 4 of them. Rance |
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#125
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| Thanks for all the suggestions folks. I will try fileing a slight taper on my rod tomorrow because Im not there at the moment, and I'll also try tapping a piece of wood and seeing if that works ok. It is possible that my tap has become a bit worn because it wasn't very expensive, I will see if I can get a better 8mm tap tomorrow also. Im going to pull another 12hrs on Friday so hopefully I'll get everything done and then I'll just have to solve this problem. I think Im going to re-make my second Z truck again to be symmetrical as to avoid problems later on. gmfoster, the only problem with posting stuff to Europe is for businesses who have to fill out the required Import/Export documentation. For a private individual to post something it can be put into a regular envelope with a few stamps and sent on its way. Someone has very generously offerred to see if he can get me a few M8 nuts, but Im not sure if he's ok with me to mention his name? Failing a new tap and/or filing the end of the threaded rod the only solution is to get some nuts, or to get some made by RFQ. Im under no doubt that these nuts are available over here somewhere but I just dont know where... Im going to post a thread also to see if anyone in Europe can give me a supplier.If I end up posting an RFQ I'd say the simplest method would be to get a 15mm or 20mm square steel bar and drill/tap an 8mm hole in the center, then drill/tap the 6mm holes on the side without them going far enough in to interfere with the central hole. I think a machinist could do 4 of these in less than half an hour and they shouldn't be too expensive. Anyway, thats all I have for now Im afraid. Thanks for all the help and suggestions. L8rs. Last edited by thkoutsidthebox; 01-18-2007 at 05:35 PM. |
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#127
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Firstly I'd like to say a sincere thanks to Buzz for arranging to send me some coupler nuts. ![]() This evening I made a new Z truck (See post below for pics) hoping that they will be slightly more symmetrical. I also painted the part I cut the other day. Tomorrow Im not sure what I'll get done but hopefully everything I can do without the coupler nuts will be finished by tomorrow evening. (Touch wood!)Obviously I have to scrap the Z mounting Plate now because of the changed trucks. Im going back to do a bit so I might get a new one cut out. I might cut this one from of solid wood instead of MDF to help prevent blowout like the last one. If I get everything done tomorrow excluding the coupler nut parts, then I'll concentrate on getting the software onto my machine for running it so it is all set up and ready to roll while Im waiting for the post. ![]() Bye for now. Last edited by thkoutsidthebox; 01-18-2007 at 04:57 PM. |
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#130
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| I cut my first one out of pine. No Good the wood did not hold to gether nice enough. It worked but was a piece of grap... Hopefully you have better luck. If you are going to get hard wood, maple or birch (or something like that) might be better as it usually has a nicer grain. I used oak as I had a lot of it around. |
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#131
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| Thanks, I will certainly keep that in mind if (When) I go to buy some hardwood. I just really always liked the look of White Oak, and had originally intended building the entire machine from it. But I was afraid of screwing it up and wasting all that money, so went with the cheap stuff for my first try .Im eager to get it all built (Probably over eager! ) so although common sense tells me I should plan my alterations now, I want to see something move!! Then I can go back and start making changes ... |
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#132
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| Hi, Today I bought some new 8mm taps (Pic1) but didn't mention it previously because I hadn't tried them yet. Well, guess what...they work...kinda! I re-tapped my DIY Coupler Nuts and they now go onto my 8mm threaded rod and run along it (Pic2), although they are not perfectly smooth. I definately still need the proper ones, but Im hoping that if the post takes a while, then these now might let me see some life in my machine while Im waiting. Thats dependant upon my 200oz/in motors having enough torque to overcome the intermittent resistance thats still there. Anyway, as a temporary measure hopefully they will be ok. But the first change to my machine will be their replacement. My old 8mm tap was ignominously tossed into the bin! grrr.... |
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