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#1
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| Hi guys. Well im a bit confused. Im going to be build a cnc table soon but im also working on the soft ware to run it. What i will be useing the machine for is a art work called intarsia, a 3d inlay glued on to a backing. Ok now from what i understand i need like 4 programs to work with, a cad program to make the pattern, my patterns are very simular to staind glass patterns, then i need a 3d program like silo, then a carving program like vcarve, then a program likr mach3 to run the program? Am i right about all this? Thank for any help graham |
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#3
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| It sounds like you want to cut the parts out and carve the profiles on them, right? What you want to do, is model each individual part in a 3D CAD program. You don't need a seperate programs for the outline and the carved surface. And I think you'd have an extremely difficult time trying to model parts in Silo that fit together well. I'd recommend something like Rhino. Or any other 3D CAD program that will let you draw the patterns and use those drawings to create accurate 3D parts that will fit together. Keep in mind that making these "carved" 3D shapes is not a simple, beginners task in most CAD programs. It's going to take some decent knowledge of the program you choose to use. Expect a somewhat steep learning curve. Once you have the part, you need a CAM program to create the g code. Not sure what you're budget is, but the more expensive options ($1000+) will let you both create the outline of the part and do the 3D carving. I personally don't think you need to do that. I believe you can use a program like MeshCAM ( www.meshcam.com ) to carve out the shape. MeshCAM carves a part by traveling back and forth, stepping over a certain distance between each pass. Depending on the stepover and tool size, this may leave some scallops around the edges of the part that need to be sanded out. If you're looking for a smooth finished part that requires little or no sanding, expect it to take longer than doing it by hand would take. If you don't mind doing some handwork, the process can be sped up quite a bit. Btw, Vcarve does not do 3D carving, but I've heard they will have a new product soon that does. Once the g-code is created, then yes, you load it into Mach3 to run your machine. If your parts are small, you're going to find that figuring out how to hold the parts down will be half the battle. For anyone wanting to see an intarsia example, http://www.intarsia.com/FreeSantaBear.html
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#4
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| Thanks for the fast reply, you guys are fast. Actualy ger what ill be doing is cuting the pieces out with a scroll saw, im sure i could cut them faster than a cnc can, that teddy you linked i could cut in 5 to 10 min. then ill be glueing all the pieces on to a backing and cnc them as a whole piec like a relief carving. think that woould be way faster. I know what you say about vcarve doing 3d, it wont do it, but is intarsia realy 3d or 2.5d. ill check out meshcam and see how that works.thanks for showing every one the teddy, i have no picts of my own work as they were in my old comp and it died before i could put them on a disk.Oh by the way ger id love to pick your brain on the cnc front, your knowledge is impresive, Think i read nearly all your posts. thanks again graham |
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#5
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| Hello Graham, You are right about a CNC machine being the right way to go for cutting intarsia designs. As GER said VCarve Pro doesn't do 3D machining more 2.5D pocketing and profile cut outs that I guess would be useful for this type of work? A customer has recently machined the sign below using a combination of inlay work and engraved / vcarved text. You can see a summary of how he did this project on the Vectric Forum We are about to release a 3D machining product called Cut3D and although we aren't quite ready to say too much about this software, there are some details on the Vectric Forum. I hope this helps, Tony Mac |
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#6
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| hey tony, I went to the vetric forum and seen a rooster on your post. That is shaping very simular to intarsia. its flat on the back. Im not worried about cutting each piece out and then shaping it . I want too shape it all out as a whole piece. I had seen you on the silo forum as well . did you do that using silo then used vetric. thanks graham |
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#7
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| I'd recommend that you start playing with some software to see if you can do what you want before you move forward with the machine. I don't know how experienced you are with 3D software, but it may not be as simple as you may think. Also, aligning your hand cut parts with the machine to get precise results along the joints may be very difficult as well. Btw, feel free to PM any time.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#8
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| I've done my share of scroll work (have an RBI saw and such) and done a few intarsia things (but mostly done just scroll) and I'd say it would be nearly impossiable to align the piece cut by hand and gluded up for final contouring on a machine. I think the variance between what you cut (and I know ya can get darn good accurate on a scroll saw) and what you would machine down to contour would be to much.. Don't know if the effect would be good or not. I'd be more apt to want the machine to cut the parts out for me then contour them on the inflatiable sander. Course as always the sanding is the part no one lines so I understand why you are looking to do it this way.. Could be cool. b. |
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#9
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| I hear what you guys are saying about cutting and fitting the pieces to line up but what im thinking is to make a glueing template out of mdf, cutting the out side line , then if any pieces dont fit right i recut them. If i can cut the pieces with the machine then ya ill do that too, make a second machine for that. I have been doing this full time for a while so any way too speed production up will be a benifit, wish this thing had spell check. Thanks ger i will pm you when i get my plans im sure lol.Oh i checked meshcam and i looks great, good price for near every thing i need. But i have no experience doing 3d so guess ill doing alot of playing around on the comp,maybe take a night course. thanks. graham |
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#10
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| In looking at the intersia book I have it appears the approach is not true 3D. The sides and bottom have to mesh up like a jigsaw puzzle. The top is then relief cut to give the piece (often using different colors and kinds of woods to enhance the design) a quasi 3D look. There may be a way to threat the individual pieces (kinda like an inlay approach) but use the V carve approach to cut the top relief patterns. At the very least the individual pieces from different wood types can be designed and routed so the are a perfect fit and then shaped with rotary tools and sanders to get the final look. ![]() Dunno. I got interested in the art a few years ago but have never done it |
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#11
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| hey torch, Ya its intersting art work, been doing it for 5 yrs now. My company name is nature in pieces, probably never herd of me, mostly local but i did have a couple of store in cali, Im in bc canada. i believe its more 2.5d than 3d. cutting each pieces then shaping it with the cnc would take too long in my eyes. I went to vector art and seen a spread eagle,ill use that as an example, sorry i cant seem to load picts on here. any way if i cut out each piece like the feathers and what have you in the different shade of wood then glue it on a backing, then stick it on the cnc and shape it exactly like the pict in vector art then it should work right? If this works and im the first then i want shares to which ever software i use lol. graham |
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