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#1
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| I do a mix of cutting and drilling in soft metals. What's really painful is there appears to be no good way to use a drill bit on a router like Porter Cable.. Oh course, a drill chuck would change that. I typically cut the part and just kiss the surface with the router bit where I need to drill holes. Then I take the part to a mill / drill and go from there. So an extra step which costs 15-30 minutes per part. Can anyone offer some advice on the following: 1. Is it possible to add a drill chuck to a Porter Cable router (or any other router) ?? 2. Is there any manufacturer who makes a set of drill bits that all have 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2 inch shank. These could easily be inserted into a router. |
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#4
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| There are usually options when it comes to machining, you didn't say what size the holes are. If they are a little bigger than the bit(s) that will fit in your router then you could easily plunge down to what ever depth you need them to be and simply circle interpolate the holes to size, it will take a little longer but will be worth it in the end. If you need help with the code, I can write a sample with an explanition of what it means so that you will be able to do it on your own. If the holes are smaller than .25 but bigger than .125 there are adapters that go into a .25 collet to allow a .125 to go in it. |
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#6
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| I don't have a variable speed, but I think the speed will still be to high, it will depend on what the lowest speed is. I personally would not run a drill bit at much over 1000 rpm unless it was in an enclosed mill. If it was a small drill bit of less than say .125 you might be able to get away with 2000 - 3000 rpm, but how much is a avarage trip to the hospital these days? would it be worth the chance? not to me!! |
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#7
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The slowest setting on any router I've ever seen is 8000 rpm. Still way too fast for drilling.
__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#8
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| I've typically use small router end mills (1/8") and then cut out the holes or partially drilling them (i.e., dotting the hole about 0.05" deep). The problem I've encountered is I need to use a 1/8" end mill for 8-32, 10-24 and 1/4-20 bolts. If I step up to 3/16 or 1/4" end mill I lose the ability to precisely align the bolt / screw holes for moving over to a mill / drill. Many of my parts require 1" square or 2"x1" rectangular pocketing work which takes forever using a 1/8" end mill. I'm cutting aluminum and running at 3 inches per minutes @ 0.07" deep steps. I guess that goes to show why you need both a CNC Mill and CNC Router to work with.. |
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#9
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| Gene-Yo I use my router all the time to "drill" You can get nearly any size end mill you need. In 5052 aluminum yesterday I was cutting .125" deep @ 8 in/min. 22,000 rpm. using an Onsrud 1 flute cutter approx. 1/8 dia. I can plunge or "drill" @ 2 ipm. I have used up to a 1/2" endmill to punch holes (10,000 rpm) in aluminum. Why wouldn't you do all your machining in steps before removing from router, ie. all drill holes 1 size bit then change to different bit for pocketing etc.? Cutmore |
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#10
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| When it comes to machining I always use the biggest end mill possible for the job. If you could use .500 end mill your feed rate would have to increase dramatically which will cut way down on your machining time.ex I run a haas vf4 at work when I machine aluminum I typically mill at 500ipm and that is still way to slow but it is as fast as the machine will go. On my cnc router at home I use the same principal but my router will only feed at 60 ipm. Some day I plan on changing to servos which will atleast double my speed. But I have to buy a lathe & cnc it first for the work I have now. |
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