![]() | |
| Home Page | Mark Forums Read | Today's Posts | My Replies | Classifieds | Reviews | Photo Gallery | Web Links | Share Files | Advertise With Us | Ad List |
| |||||||
| DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here! |
| This forum is sponsored by: |
![]() |
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread | Display Modes |
|
#1
| |||
| |||
I think after all the time spent on my machine it would only be right to make it perty by giving it a coat of something.. I have used POR-15 before but of course I'd like to do something cheeper. POR is probably what I should use although I will say don't ever use it in an application that will see alot (or rather any) sun. They do warn it needs a UV protector coat if you do.. So any suggestions of something for steel that is brush on and perhaps avaliable at a homedepot type store or Lowes? b. |
|
#3
| |||
| |||
| There was a recent article in American Machinist magazing about machine paints and coatings. In a nutshell, paint is NOT necessarily the best, most robust thing to coat a machine with, especially ones that see oils/coolants and other stuff that is not "paint" friendly. The article was a fascinating discussion of polymeric and or polyurethane coatings. Perhaps these are expensive, might provide better OVERALL VALUE with regard to durability, protection and non-degradation of appearance. We stopped using Rustoleum on machines some time ago. We stumbled across a polyurethance paint coating at the local BIG BOX store that is made by Valspar. If you strip to bare metal, properly prime and then double top coat with their "system", we get decent durability and it is "touchupable". The color we used was a powder blue. It does tend to discolor (turns gray) with age and coolant splash but it seems to hold up for several years on a grinder (notoriously bad for retaining paint and not rusting). HOwever, the best luck we did have was to remove the small parts and powder coat them. That stuff is darn near bullet proof and WELL worth the investment. Besides, THEY sandblast the parts and remove all the old paint so it REALLY isn't that pricely all things considered. Especially, if you need to have the sandblasting done by someone. |
|
#4
| |||
| |||
| Thanks for the suggestion NC.. Hopefully some one will get something from the suggestion. I'm so close to getting it done I think I will stick with the rusto paint.. The machine really is in no danger of rusting it self since it's in the house (dry basement).. So hopefully I will be ok.. Just figured I would atleast try to make it look it's best once done. b. |
|
#5
| |||
| |||
| Yeah thats one thing I,ve noticed since I started working at this tool & die shop, the coolant just eats paint like its nothing. Rustoleum is the choice by many, I heard the one that is made for tractors is the one to get. |
| Sponsored Links |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| Display Modes | |
| |