Using a router for the 1st time. Need advice of cut speeds, router bits etc.

[Apples]

Hi all.

I have a CNC plasma table that can be found over here on this link.
Started to build my plasma table.

I have just bought a small router today, that I have bolted to the plasma table.

I don't have a clue if this router will be powerfull enough, if I have the right cutting bit etc. I have no idea on what feed speeds to use etc.

The router is a Variable speed, 11,500- 32,000rpm, 650W. It has a 6.35mm(1/4") and 8mm Collet.

First of all I plan to cut MDF and light pine timber.

1. Is this powerfull enough?
2. I also want to cut aluminium, is it powerfull enough?

I have included photo's below to show you how it is mounted onto the z axis.

The table is powered by dual slaved 1200 oz steppers, one on either side of the table for x. And only 1 270oz stepper for y.

3. Will 270 oz be enough power to rout wood?
4. ---------------------------to rout aluminium?

I have also included a photo of the router bit that I bought. It is a Tungsten carbide tipped straight cut, 10mm width 1/4" shank.

5. Will this work? I don't think that I will be able to plundge into the timber with this though. I will have to start from the edge.

6. What rpm should I set the router to for cutting mdf?
7. What feed speed should I set the machine to in mm/min?
8. How big a depth of cut should I make?

I hope someone can get me started!

Cheers
Peter
Australia
www.supernerd.com.au/~apalais

[Guldberg]

You have more than sufficient power for woodcutting, look at the many other routers on the forum, people are cutting away with only 127oz steppers on each axis, it all depends on the feedrate. Why not just start cutting away, make a simple test program and make a straight cut at different speeds and depths, compare the cuts and "listen" to how well the machine is cutting, simpel trial and error process, dont thing you can completly waste the machine if u start slowly (200mm/min f.x.) and take it from there:-)

[HayTay]

Originally Posted by Apples I have also included a photo of the router bit that I bought. It is a Tungsten carbide tipped straight cut, 10mm width 1/4" shank. 5. Will this work? I don't think that I will be able to plundge into the timber with this though. I will have to start from the edge.

I think most people are using a 1/8" (3.175mm), 3/16" (4.762mm), or 1/4" (6.350mm), 2 flute, spiral, upcut bit(s). See attached photo.

[Apples]

Guldberg,

Yes there should be enough power then. I also noticed that people are actually cutting aluminium with the wood built cnc routers as well. So I should defenantly be able to cut alu. witn mine then.

The main reason that I want to get the router working is so that I can cut say 1000mm. Then I can measure it with a tape measure so that I can workout the proper steps per unit etc. At the mement it is a bit hard to do the same thing with a bit of cut steel because there is so much error from the plasma cutting process itself.

Also I can eventualy cut out some aluminium parts to rebuild the whole z axis and carrage that I have out of aluminium.

Yes I also agree about starting the cutting slowly like 200/300mm min and go from there. I am used to plasma cutting at speeds of up to 3700mm/min. There is a bit of a difference there!!!


HayTay,

Those bits look pretty fancy. I might try and ebay one of those bits. Should I get any particular size. Or it is just a matter if a larger bit just cuts more wood off, and sharper inside corners etc?

Peter

[HayTay]

Originally Posted by Apples HayTay, Those bits look pretty fancy. I might try and ebay one of those bits. Should I get any particular size. Or it is just a matter if a larger bit just cuts more wood off, and sharper inside corners etc? Peter

Larger bits remove more material, quicker than smaller bits. A larger bit will result in more rounded (LESS sharp) inside corners, though. Think about it, visualize the cutter, become one with the cutter, you've got it now, by Jove. Both large and small cutters can, and do, produce sharp external corners.

The smaller the job, and the finer the detail, the smaller the end mill needed. If you're hogging out a lot of material usually the job is comprised of at least two tool paths, one roughing pass with a larger end mill, and a second pass with a smaller end mill.

Hope that helps you out.

[ger21]

With that bit you have, you should be able to cut at least 1000mm/min at a depth ofabout 10mm, and around 18-20,000 rpm.
Rather than enter the part from the edge, you can also ramp into the cut.

[Apples]

Righto,

I cut some wood today, totaly awesome to watch!

In the below photo's. How do I cut out the full shape. I guess that I should have a piece of scrap wood underneath so that I can cut say 1mm below the actual cut part. This will make sure that the part is cut all the way through.

After I cut all the way through the wood that part is no longer clamped to the other bit of wood. So won't the cut part move about and jam up the router???

How do I get around this issue?

Peter
Australia

[spalm]

Hey Apples,

Yes, add a scrap underneath and cut all the way through. This is called a spoil board. It will leave a cleaner cut also.

You can use double sticky tape to hold down the work piece. I use the stuff intended for holding carpet down. If you peel it off right after using it no residue is left. Try not to place it where the router will cut through so it does not gum up the bit.

Another way is to add little tabs to the design of the cut-out that are not cut all the way through. Then just manually sand these off. Some CAM programs will place these for you automatically.

Steve

[spydermeister]

Originally Posted by HayTay I think most people are using a 1/8" (3.175mm), 3/16" (4.762mm), or 1/4" (6.350mm), 2 flute, spiral, upcut bit(s). See attached photo.

Where would an individual acquire such bits? home depot has 1/4 inch, rockler doesn't seem to have them, and i'm still searching...

[HayTay]

Originally Posted by spydermeister Where would an individual acquire such bits? home depot has 1/4 inch, rockler doesn't seem to have them, and i'm still searching...

I usually purchase mine from ENCO.

ATRAX Carbide End Mills from ENCO - Catalog Page

If your looking to purchase from ENCO, check my Discount/Promo Codes offered by Manufacturers & Part Suppliers thread for the current ENCO free shipping code (or to request a newer code).

If you're in a rush, and have a local Harbor Freight store, I've purchased cheapo carbide end mills in a 3 pack for less than $10.00 from them. If you're just experimenting this may be the way to go as I can pretty much guarantee that you'll break an end mill or two while getting the hang of things. I'm sure you can figure out how I know. BTW, HF doesn't seem to sell them online, only in their stores.

[spydermeister]

HayTay, how did you figure it out? i'm 'baffled'... j/k

But what I'm not kidding about... there's no HF anywhere near me. my zip is 82401. pleh.

Am I on to something with these item numbers at HF? ITEM 93451-0VGA and ITEM 93450-0VGA

[spydermeister]

Anyone know where I can get a good deal on this:
http://bosch.cpotools.com/routers/pa...ref=googaw1774

it's a Bosch Colt Palm router w/ variable speed... I am thinking it would make a great unit for the center of my first machine.