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| DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here! |
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| View Poll Results: If you only have an option of fitting one machine to the gantry, what would it be? | |||
| Router | | 324 | 80.80% |
| Dremel | | 39 | 9.73% |
| Something else (please specify what) | | 38 | 9.48% |
| Voters: 401. You may not vote on this poll | |||
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#1
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Ok, I have a budget and it'll only stretch to ONE machine. What do I buy? A router or a dremel-type tool? Any other ideas? I'd want to be able to do PCBs as well as wood (for redesigning and reworking my machine). Working with aluminium is similar to wood so I guess the same machine would cover both? Is 1000W enough? Variable speed is a must I guess? If the answer is "router" then what bits can be used with routers? Are they specific to routers? |
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#2
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| Personally I'd go with a variable speed router and not cut too tight on the budget corner. If you plan to ever do any heavy cutting at all the larger spindle and bearings of the router will be a big plus. Paying a bit more to get one with collet capacity larger than the 1/4" on the cheapies will also help by making possible use of larger tooling such as fly cutters. Tiger |
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#3
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| I was thinking of going for the best machine my budget would stretch to so I don't have to buy a new one a few months down then line when it starts showing its weaknesses. So that's why only one is an option. I'd rather have one proper machine than two cheapies. |
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#4
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| Dremel's are absolutely not the way to go. They are weak, and have lots of play and run-out in the spindle shaft. Probably the best way to go is the RotoZip by Bosch. They have a variable speed model, and the quality of the new Bosch ones is very good indeed. It sounds like you are going for a smallish router, so the larger 1/2" collet machines would be too big and heavy for your application anyway. There are any number of bits you can use in your router. The most common one you will likely use on wood is a 1/4" spiral up-cutting router bit, also known as an endmill. The upwards spiral draws the cut chips up and out of the cut preventing clogging of your bit and burning of the material you are cutting. For your PCB's, you will likely go with a smaller diameter tool, 1/8" or even 1/16" and smaller of course for drilling the holes. Colin |
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#7
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__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#9
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| When i designed my router, I decided to use a Makita Die Grinder #906H, 30,000 RPM dual bearing spindle, easy to repair, made from solit cast aluminum, not plastic! But most of all is was very slender, at 2.8" diameter! I took the spindle nose casting off and used my lathe to turn it round, to make it easier to clamp on to! The spindle has a maximum of 1/4" dimeter collet, but I made a reducer for 3/16" and 1/8" shank endmills and bits! Dremel's are really nice, and not as noisy as my die grinder, but the ergonomic handle designs are impossible to clamp on to! In my opinion! Eric
__________________ www.widgitmaster.com It's not what you take away, it's what you are left with that counts! |
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#11
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| Just bought the COlt, it bolts up fine to the carriage and its' got a variable speed. I guess I am limiting myself to 1/4 inch shafts and reducers but since my machine isn't all that fast anyway I don't think I'll be spinning many big bits. |
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#12
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| The best inexpensive spindle I've found is the er16 spindle made by Sherline. I bought two and both had less than .0005 runout 1/2" from the collet end. Certainly these are not for hard work but if you have enough time and are looking strictly for precision, it can't be beat for the price. Cheap speed would be a mini mill head from littlemachineshop.com with some work. Never a dremel. |
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