Z movement idea ???

[jasoneule]

The thumb operated cam lock is what will throw you off. This lock binds the tube into the chassis allowing it not to move (shear/racking force)

Without this lock, there could be slop introduced.

Also you may not have as much Z height movement as necessary if mounting the base on a plate attached to the Y.

In theory it would work. I think your are on to something. I just do not know if it would really be worth it in the end. I can not think of a way for you to mount that base very effectively from the side of the base (its made out of crappy pot metal), which is what would give you almost 100% more of Z travel.

It would work though...Its been done before in a similar concept. BTW I think this is a very good deal for a router table setup considering most lifts are over $200 by themselves.

MLCS PowerLift™ Motorized Router Lift

Good thinking outside the box-

[jasoneule]

Originally Posted by ger21 I don't think a plunge router is smooth enough for it to work with a stepper. I think it will bind. But you never know.

Binding is a common occurrence. Its almost always caused by the spring. If they are removed then it goes away...on the other hand if your are hand routing with a plunge router and not spring...you lose your lift assist.

When installing big plunge routers under a table I have always taken out the spring because gravity is in my favor already.

If you are going to try this for your CNC I would take them out so that binding does not occur like Ger21 suggested.

[TrickyCNC]

the router IS in my router table at the moment, and this is how I set the height. (this is what sparked the idea) I don't use the cam lock, when it's mounted in the table, never had any noticeable wobble or chatter.

[TrickyCNC]

I took the router out of the table today to have a closer look
It has about 2" of "Z" adjustment / travel

[jasoneule]

2" of travel minus plate/base.

The real challenge is going to be the mounting of it. Any base substantial enough to hold it from flexing will eat into that height adjustment quick. In order to gain back that height adj you could mount the base from from its side. But I think that would just result in a broken base.

In reality as long as you were not trying to rout something thicker than 3/4" you could be alright. But then you have dust collection to try to configure and no space to do it.

[TrickyCNC]

2" of movement is still 2" of movement, even if I have a 3" thick base ! The length of the bit or collet (or collet extender) determines how deep you can cut. and for sheet material, it's mostly 3/4" max

the challenge of holding it, is a lesser challenge than without the base. you seem to want to over complicate things ?

In it's simplest form, it could be a wooden box with a hole in the bottom, and no lid.
Bolt the box to the Y carriage, and you have a very easy and very stiff router mount

[louieatienza]

Originally Posted by TrickyCNC 2" of movement is still 2" of movement, even if I have a 3" thick base ! The length of the bit or collet (or collet extender) determines how deep you can cut. and for sheet material, it's mostly 3/4" max the challenge of holding it, is a lesser challenge than without the base. you seem to want to over complicate things ? In it's simplest form, it could be a wooden box with a hole in the bottom, and no lid. Bolt the box to the Y carriage, and you have a very easy and very stiff router mount

Search for haydn's build here in this forum. Here's his YouTube channel haydn812's Channel - YouTube
He uses a plunge router for a spindle; his build thread may shed some light as to how it's attached. One of the nicest builds I've seen...

[jasoneule]

Originally Posted by TrickyCNC 2" of movement is still 2" of movement, even if I have a 3" thick base ! The length of the bit or collet (or collet extender) determines how deep you can cut. and for sheet material, it's mostly 3/4" max the challenge of holding it, is a lesser challenge than without the base. you seem to want to over complicate things ? In it's simplest form, it could be a wooden box with a hole in the bottom, and no lid. Bolt the box to the Y carriage, and you have a very easy and very stiff router mount

I am trying to think through the design because I think it is worth a shot. I did say it would work. I don't think this is as easy to implement as you are thinking. am I over complicating it? I don't think so.

I did not know what type of material you planed on cutting or its thickness. I do not remember that info being offered. I thought maybe you might want to cut a relief in a 2-3" thick slab....or whatever. So I was trying to cover a variety of situations. If 3/4" is the max height then that solves that problem.

The router base (box) has to be set low enough to the table so you can still cut (even with an extender) you have 2" of travel. Other problems in play, bit changes.

A small amount of head room to change bits is not going to be easy. Go mock up that situation on your router table and see for yourself.

Time to go complicate my life now.

[TrickyCNC]

Thanks Louie

I've read that thread a while ago, very detailed and precise work he does indeed !

There you go jasoneule, see louie's link above.

Plunge Router, CNC ... simples !

Rich

[jasoneule]

Those videos show a cnc with a plunge router at full depth on moving Z axis.

If this is your plan then we are talking in circles. I was under the impression that you were using your plunge as the Z. His btw has much more then 2 inch of travel.

I will take a look at his build later since it comes well recomended.

[louieatienza]

Originally Posted by jasoneule Those videos show a cnc with a plunge router at full depth on moving Z axis. If this is your plan then we are talking in circles. I was under the impression that you were using your plunge as the Z. His btw has much more then 2 inch of travel. I will take a look at his build later since it comes well recomended.

That's what rich's original idea was about. I thought I'd throw this in to give different ideas how to implement plunge routers.

What I think might not make this a good idea is that the height adjustment screw is likely not supported by bearings, whether oilite or ball bearings, and the constant up-and-down will wear out the mechanism really fast, if it doesn't gall up and freeze on you. Besides the Z axis is just a smaller version of the y axis, attached to the y axis, so it's not too hard to make. Finally, if your router goes for some reason, are you going to buy another one like it? They're not exactly cheap, so you'd have to mod a brand new one, or build a new z...

[TrickyCNC]

no, I wouldn't want to use it as a permanent set up.

I was just at the stage with my machine build, with the Y carriage (if thats wat it's called ? ) moving up and down the gantry, where the idea came to me, I could attach my plunge router to my Y and start cutting before I've made the Z .

I could then use the CNC machine to make the parts for the Z

and because i'm at the stage of the build where "IT's SO EXCITING" !!!