Need help getting electronics going

[Dman65]

I am building a Solsylva 10x9 router. I have the structural portion pretty much finished, though the axes may be a bit too tight so I may still have some work to do in that regard.

Right now I am having trouble getting my steppers to turn. I am using a 24V 6amp power supply, a Univelop TA8435-3.1.1 driver (yeah, I know. I bought it two years ago and didn't know better), and 3 Keling KL23H276-30-8A motors.

I am trying to run on EMC2. I am able to get the x and z axes to turn, but the settings I put in on the test don't make any sense. I was using a speed of .2 in/sec and acceleration of 1 in/sec/sec. I was testing the axes over a 2" test pattern. The two axes that worked made some weird sounds, almost like a siren or something. They made a grinding sound and then moved without making too much sound and started making the grinding sound again as the reached the end of travel. They also moved more than 2"?

The one axis that didn't move was demonstrating holding power when it wasn't supposed to be moving, but when it was supposed to be moving there was no movement or holding force. I was able to turn the screw by hand easily when it was supposed to be turning. It could be that a wire is loose or something. I thought it was strange that it didn't make any sound at all when it was supposed to be moving. They all kind of hiss when they are turned on and not moving.

Does anyone have any ideas how I can get this straightened out? And does anyone know what settings should be used for this driver board in EMC2? Unfortunately I purchased the driver board 2 years ago and the individual I purchased it from is no longer on Ebay.

[CarveOne]

Originally Posted by Dman65 I am building a Solsylva 10x9 router. I have the structural portion pretty much finished, though the axes may be a bit too tight so I may still have some work to do in that regard. Right now I am having trouble getting my steppers to turn. I am using a 24V 6amp power supply, a Univelop TA8435-3.1.1 driver (yeah, I know. I bought it two years ago and didn't know better), and 3 Keling KL23H276-30-8A motors. I am trying to run on EMC2. I am able to get the x and z axes to turn, but the settings I put in on the test don't make any sense. I was using a speed of .2 in/sec and acceleration of 1 in/sec/sec. I was testing the axes over a 2" test pattern. The two axes that worked made some weird sounds, almost like a siren or something. They made a grinding sound and then moved without making too much sound and started making the grinding sound again as the reached the end of travel. They also moved more than 2"? The one axis that didn't move was demonstrating holding power when it wasn't supposed to be moving, but when it was supposed to be moving there was no movement or holding force. I was able to turn the screw by hand easily when it was supposed to be turning. It could be that a wire is loose or something. I thought it was strange that it didn't make any sound at all when it was supposed to be moving. They all kind of hiss when they are turned on and not moving. Does anyone have any ideas how I can get this straightened out? And does anyone know what settings should be used for this driver board in EMC2? Unfortunately I purchased the driver board 2 years ago and the individual I purchased it from is no longer on Ebay.

The high pitch grinding/ratcheting sound is motor stalling. Set your inch per minute to about 10 so that the motors are in the low rpm and high torque range. Once you get the motors running without stalling you can start increasing the inch per minute number higher until motors stall again. Keep the acceleration number low as well. Binding in the mechanics will cause stalling. Something too tight or misaligned will cause stalling. Stalling doesn't hurt the motors, but you won't get anything made until you get rid of it. You may need to add resonance dampers to each motor shaft. Worry about getting all motors running at some reliable speed first.

If you have a motor voltage wire that is open it may damage the driver output device. Low cost drivers generally have no open or short circuit protection.

CarveOne

[Dman65]

Well, I switched the x and y connections and the y motor worked and the x didn't after the switch, so I guess that axis driver is dead. Time to look for a new driver or build one. This is turning into being a very long project lol.

[CarveOne]

Originally Posted by Dman65 Well, I switched the x and y connections and the y motor worked and the x didn't after the switch, so I guess that axis driver is dead. Time to look for a new driver or build one. This is turning into being a very long project lol.

I'm sure you have heard this before, but a Gecko G540 has resonance damping to eliminate stalling, and short/open circuit protection, among the list of features that makes it such a good buy (at a higher price). It truly meets the "you get what you pay for" axiom. It doesn't claim to be "Unkillable" like the G203V driver though. If you are going to stay in this hobby, consider buying a G540 because it can drive much larger machines as you grow with the hobby.

CarveOne