Alignment Process - FLA300

[PortlandGTS]

I now have all the parts, and am starting to assemble a FLA-300. I'm now starting to worry about getting things aligned. I found brtech's thread really useful, but have some basic questions:

- It seems that the goal of the alignemnt process is to get the three axes perpendicular to each other. Once that's done it's just a matter of milling the table/spoilboard so it's parallel to the X & Y axes, and marking the X=0 and Y=0 lines. Is this the idea, or is there more to it?

- I have a dial indicator, a 24" carpenter's square, and a 6" machinist's square. Should I look into a larger machinist's square, or is a carpenters square sufficient? Any other tools I should get?

- Should I be using lock washers or Loctite during assembly to hold things in alignment?

- Any other things I should be aware of?

Thanks,
Tom

[solodex2151]

Originally Posted by PortlandGTS I now have all the parts, and am starting to assemble a FLA-300. I'm now starting to worry about getting things aligned. I found brtech's thread really useful, but have some basic questions: - It seems that the goal of the alignemnt process is to get the three axes perpendicular to each other. Once that's done it's just a matter of milling the table/spoilboard so it's parallel to the X & Y axes, and marking the X=0 and Y=0 lines. Is this the idea, or is there more to it? - I have a dial indicator, a 24" carpenter's square, and a 6" machinist's square. Should I look into a larger machinist's square, or is a carpenters square sufficient? Any other tools I should get? - Should I be using lock washers or Loctite during assembly to hold things in alignment? - Any other things I should be aware of? Thanks, Tom

Tom,

I assume that you will be using a spoilboard? If so, it makes the process so much easier. In general, I tell people to do the following:

1. When you attach the legs to the table, use a pair of calipers, a stop that can slide over the 8020, or a good steel rule and try to get the top part of the legs (without taking into account the 3030-65 and 4"x60" rail heights) within .010-.015" of each other. Closer is better but I have generally found this to be good.
2. Next, when you put the 3030-65 pieces on top and the rails on, recheck your measurements from the top of the rail to the top of the table extrusion. Again, we are looking for the measurements to be with .010-.015 of each other. Take a measurement at each of the legs. The first step should have made this one pretty easy to do and you might not need to fiddle with anything.
3. When you assemble and install the gantry, the 8020_4332 gussets that go from the extrusion to the carriages really help to autosquare things up. Put the extrusions loosely on the rails and lightly clamp the 2 extended carriages on each side together. Crank down the gussets first and then the carriage bolts holding the extrusions together. The gussets should largely auto square the gantry with respect to the rails.
4. Use your square to square up the Z-Axis to the Y axis. Try to get it as square as possible. You will likely have to loosen and tap things into place multiple times.
5. Now your at the point where the machine is built and you've got the homing procedure basically down and your ready to start cutting. Everything is somewhat square and the machine jogs pretty good. You will want to install your spoilboard. If you have a indicator, chuck it up and make sure the spoilboard isn't too far out of plane (too far is probably > 1/16"). Surface the spoilboard (and hack up a lung if you don't have DC setup...). You might notice a slight ridge from front to back of the tool mark on the spoilboard. Don't worry, we will wring that out in the next step.
6. Now it is time to tram the spindle in reference to the table. Put a flat sheet of glass or other material on the table to eliminate the slight ridge and ensure you are working from a flat surface. There are some great references on the web for tramming a mill so I will not go into it here. For this machine, tramming front to back should be accomplished by shimming in between the spindle mount and Z-Axis plate. Tramming left to right involves loosening the SHCS that hold the Z-Axis plate to the carriages and gently tapping things with a mallet into position.
7. After you have trammed the mill, resurface your spoilboard by skimming 0.005-0.010" off the top and you should be good to go.

I would love to have comments or suggestions on improving this procedure or alternative procedures that can be done.

Also, has anyone used a tabletop that can't be surfaced like extrusions or maybe aluminum sub-plate with this machine? I would love to hear of your alignment procedures because I am currently running some alignment issues with a production machine I am setting up. The above procedure is largely predicated on most of the inaccuracy being taken out on the spoilboard surfacing, which I can't do with the planned tabletop.

As far as items that are very useful for alignment that you didn't cover, here's my list:

• calipers (both 6" and 12") (HF models are fine)
• dial indicator that you can chuck in your spindle
• dial indicator stand so the same indicator can be used in tramming the spindle head

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Nate