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| DIY-CNC Router Table Machines Discuss the building of home-made CNC Router tables here! |
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#1
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. . . ![]() I get asked about plans...very often. So, I've decided to make my files and techniques available to anyone who'd like to make their own machine. The MV2 version of several machines that I make as been refined and tweaked to a point where I don't think it can be any better. But someone may do just that and I'd like to help them along as best I can..... ![]() I'll begin by making the dxf files available for the very few MDF parts that are left in the basic design....starting with the large side panels. Most other parts are relatively inexpensive to buy and I'll make my sources available as well. Some parts may be too complex and I'll also make those parts for sale, but someone can save some considerable $$ by sourcing stuff like extrusions, rails, bolts, acme, threaded rod....etc...etc... The MV2 machine is a small desktop sized machine that I personally find I need and use more often than my larger machine. There are many great advantages to the small desktop machine. One...it's less expensive to make....obviously.... ![]() With the cold weather coming before long, a desktop machine allows for doing projects in comfort indoors. It's the ideal type of machine for newbies. CNC can get to be a very expensive hobby and many people make large investments and find they have little time to make use of them. A smaller machine allows for learning in comfort and at a pace when our limited time is available. Software alone is where many get "stuck". Getting a mechanical machine in place and the needed electronics is usually the easy part. Software can take some time and what's learned by practice/experimentation with the small machine applies to the large machine....if/when someone may see they need a big machine. A small machine is portable. It's easily moved...and importantly...enclosed. The MV2 isn't a toy machine that uses little Nema 17 motors. It's a very viable light commercial duty machine. It's designed from the start to use the relatively powerful trim router such as the Bosch Colt. The recommended electronics packages and motors are the exact same ones that run some large machines. Surely smaller electronics kits and motors will run the machine fine, but for little more $$ than they cost, the better kits are the smarter purchase. That stuff is easily resold if someone were to decide that cnc isn't for them....and ...is easily transferred and fully adequate for any future larger machine. There are parts that may be too much trouble or time consuming for many of us.....the Z axis for example. I'll make those sort of parts available for sale. But...the dimensions and materials list will be made available for those many of us who can make them. It's all very simple dimensions and sizes. The machine has been as simplified as I can get it. Having built many-many machines over the years, I believe the MV2 is a premium desktop machine. It's rock solid and extremely reliable. But, it's a fairly expensive and time consuming machine for me to produce very many of them. That mostly has to do with time and my insistence of test fitting every single aspect and part. By making all the information readily available, hopefully many will be able to take their time and build/assemble one for much less than I could afford to sell the machine for. If there's any interest, I'll make more files available along. I build machines from memory so I don't have a lot of files on hand, but the thing that makes building from memory possible, its the sheer simplicity of it. A simple list of parts and dimensions should suffice, but we'll see what's needed or desirable. Anyone who'll try to cut these files will know what they need to do to make their gcode files....I'd guess... ![]() The extrusions are 8020 #3075 Rails are 18" and 16" from McMaster. Rail bushings are made from 1" round 6061 aluminum. Lathe turned to fit the rails ends. That's pretty much it for a very surprisingly strong, durable and rigid and practically self aligning basic machine frame. Pictures of the first MV1....which was a tiny bit smaller.... http://www.microcarve.com/zone14/mv1/index.php Side panel dxf files..... http://www.microcarve.com/zone14/microcarveMV2.zip I have no idea if there's much interest...but we'll see. I do think the MV2 design makes an extremely fine desktop machine. There's years of $$, time, and trial & error to get it as simple as it is. ![]() John |
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#2
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![]() Here's the 1/4" deep pockets cut into the 3/4" MDF part. I use a 1/4" upspiral bit to make the parts to avoid any tool changing. pictures.... http://www.microcarve.com/zone14/mv2...des1/index.php The 8020 extrusion has holes through it that allow 1/4" threaded rod to fit fully through and allow the assembly to be tensioned. That...for all practical purposes, makes everything self align and square itself...assuming parts are carefully made square to begin with.... ![]() Tension rods have proven to be far better than bolts from my experience. Once tensioned....it's practically unbreakable...and Very rigid. The bearing holder inset plate is cut from 1/2" x 1.25" 6061 aluminum extrusion. Fits perfectly in the pocketed recess and once tightened in place, it won't shift during use of the machine. ![]() John |
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#4
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| Thanks Very Much! ![]() The frame itself is pretty easy to see how that's done and it doesn't require much that most anyone can't do....or have done. The basic frame and the steel shafts are the bulk of the weight that's been too costly to ship to many places. So with the dxf files....and the ability to alter the steel shafts to metric measurements as needed, someone can easily build a very nice machine. I'll add that yes, it can easily be extended. That question comes often. But....the longer it gets extended, the more of a general purpose machine it'll become. Reason is, the longer extended rails only add more potential for flexing with hard use. That problem is simply enough solved, though, by having realistic expectations about what any DIY machine can do. A very tightly built machine is more likely to do higher quality and finer work if it's not overly extended. It's a very highly adaptable and simple design.... ![]() ![]() John |
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#5
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| Thanks for that, it looks like a fun project, I too have made a little machine myself, so I can respect the research and development aspect of your adventure. I also like your other larger build(s) I have seen on here. Thanks for sharing. |
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#6
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| It's very nice of you to share this info, I've followed (and been inspired by) your designs for quite some time and I'm sure a lot of people will make their own MV2 ![]() Do you have an estimate of how much would you charge for one of your Z axis? I love those and I'd be nice to use them on my (gantry) machines in the future. What rail diameter do you use for the Y axis/Y carriage bearings? |
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#7
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![]() John |
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#8
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Thanks! ![]() I've been selling the Z's for $120 for the standard 4" travel and $135 for the 6" travel. They're made with use of the Bosch Colt in mind and The 3/8" thick aluminum plate is drilled for the Colt holder that K2cnc sells. It's a Very Nice spindle holder that I couldn't make for what they charge for it. A Very well made cnc machined chunk of solid aluminum.... CNC Routers, Routers for Wood, Routers for Plastic and CNC Plasma Cutter The one they make now looks a bit different from the one on their site. Better IMO. Also, most all spindle holders that Probotix sells wil bolt directly in place. They sell holders for a good range of trim routers. CNC Router Spindles My own Z's are very carefully machined and use 1/2" Thomson case hardened precision rails. They use 3/8-12 acme for leadscrews and have solid brass couplings pre-attached with 1/4" bore for Nema 23 motors. I made most of one today to see how long it takes. It'll take me the better part of a day to make one. There's a lot of tool changing and repositioning and squaring of the metal that just takes as long as it takes. But they come out Very Nice.... ![]() There's a bunch of them in use on lots of different machines. A Bosch Colt is a pretty powerful and well made router for the relatively low price it costs. A Z axis is a really important part of a machine. I've tried many many dozens of variations and techniques and combinations of materials over the years. I think these Z's are very well made and are highly reliable for the long term. ![]() John |
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#9
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| The side panels with the Logo in the dxf files aren't necessary for any structural part of the machine. I use them for cosmetic purposes mainly....and to add a place to put a logo. They certainly can't lessen anything if they're used, but if a machine is extended, they get to a point where they may be beneficial to strength and stability. I made one machine that's a 15 x 14 cutting area for a specialty mold making shop once and that was a case of the side panels being a good idea. If the files are opened in Vectric software, they should be the correct size for creating the cutting tool paths and gcode files. I want to add here that I do keep the rights to my work for reproducing them for resale. If anyone wanted to reproduce the design for purposes of reselling the machines, they can get with me to work something out. For anyone who wants to make a few for their own personal uses...or even gifts.....this machine is Ideal for schools or educational institutions, I'm perfectly willing and able to help them in any way I can. Anyone with a mill and lathe can make one very inexpensively and Will Be impressed with the quality, strength and stability. It's a Great and Highly useful machine.... ![]() ![]() John |
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#10
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| Here's some pictures of the basic assembly of an A4. The A4 files are a little different from the MV2. I made the MV2 available first because most people want the best machine they can make and the thick 8020 aluminum extrusions do add to the rigidity and strength. They add some cost, but it's worth it for the ease of assembly and the long term durability they add to the design. The A4 is cheaper to make, but a little less rigid if someone wanted to cut harder materials. The important thing is making the parts as closely fitted as can be done and checking them constantly.... ![]() http://www.microcarve.com/yahoo/markm/ ![]() John |
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#11
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| Good stuff, John! I probably won't make an MV2 soon since I've got an A4, but the design is interesting to check out. Your points about why to start with a smaller machine are spot-on, I feel. I'm trying out several different software "toolpaths" myself to find the best route possible from idea to product, and enjoying the waypoints as I go. In my own case, I'm toying with the idea of using the A4 to cut frame elements for a scaled-down version that is small enough to be "luggable" along with its enclosure, motors, etc. I figure if I can get the size and weight down to something comparable to an old Osborne 1 computer, that'll be about right. I want the luggable CNC to take to my computer classes with me-I already take my old Osborne several days each year-so I figure a CNC about the same size would be no more trouble than that. ![]() The kids get really excited watching the floppy drives in the Osborne work, imagine how much fun seeing a working (if small) CNC would be. ![]() Of course, I'm expecting to use components as you've designed them when I get to that particular project. No sense trying to reinvent The Wheel and ending up with The Triangle instead.
__________________ http://saundby.com/ --my website http://catsonkeyboards.blogspot.com/ --my blog |
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#12
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Thanks Mark! ![]() There was one time when all I had was a bigger machine out in my shop. The cold weather....it was winter time...made it pretty uncomfortable to go out and use it later in the evening when I'd have my very best ideas of something I was just dying to try out. Then, actually turning the loud router on....I doubt the neighbors were pleased about that.... Many of us have very limited time, so a smaller desktop sized machine is a Very Nice thing to have available to play around with in comfort...and in many cases, limited indoor space. And it's warmer inside in the winter time... ![]() Your idea for a smaller portable machine sounds Great! I think the electronics that run everything can be pretty easily incorporated right into the design. A lot of my own work would fit well within a 6 x 6 x 2" cutting area, so I hope to make one like that one of these days. In fact, I have a small one I may sell off pretty soon.....the green one here.... http://www.cnczone.com/forums/diy-cn...p_machine.html That's a Cool little machine! ![]() John |
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