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#1
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I'm currently using a craftsman router on my home built machine. It is double insulated so I am unable to use the auto zero feature without attaching a clamp to the bit. I see that many people are using the Bosch routers. I'm wondering two things about these routers. One, is it double insulated? and two, what is the diameter of the bottom 1/2 part of the router. I'm hoping its about 10cm so it will fit right in my current mounts. My machine is currently down while I wait on my Gecko G540 to arrive. Thanks for any info! |
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#3
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| Well shoot... Is there any routers out there that are not double insulated anymore? I would really like to get around this having to clamp the bit thing... Anyone know if there is anyway to modify a double insulated router so I can have this feature? |
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#5
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| You can make a simple Z height sensor that will work without needing any electrical connection to the router, for instance if your router is double insulated or if you are using a ceramic or diamond cutting tool (that does not conduct). There are a couple of threads on Z height sensors, and I even designed one that can be cut in simple 2D from a common piece of 12mm acrylic sheet; http://www.cnczone.com/forums/cnc_wo...ll_router.html (see post #18, probably on page 2) |
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#6
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| WOW! Man you are one creative guy! Since this is breaking the circuit instead of closing it what do you use for zeroing the bit to the material you are cutting? I love the tool change / height sensor idea. I am going to cut one of these tonight. Actually, I guess I need two variations of it. One for zeroing to the material and one for tool change. Thank you for this awesome idea!
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#7
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| Hi Claytonc, my height sensor is permanently mounted so it tells me the exact height of the tool in reference to the table top itself. So I can zero the tool, then put some stock on the table and tell it to "cut at 10mm height" and it will face the stock down to exactly 10mm thick. If you made a similar sensor and had it movable, you could place it on top of the stock and it would tell you the distance between the tool and the top of the stock. If you are making a movable one you could change the design to make it shorter in height. As long as it has a solid base, solid top contact (both needed for accuracy) and bendable part so the arm can deflect and spring back. Obviously you need to know the height of the sensor unit itself, but that is just one initial calibration and won't change after that, as there is nothing much to wear out there. |
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#8
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| Yup, I got thinking the same thing after I posted. Using your idea this is what I've come up with. I'm cutting it out of 1" thick plexi so I can cut it all from the top. Instead of the Plexiglas flexing I’m using a ½” x 1” lite spring in the large hole. The lip on the left is to help keep the flat bar from shifting from side to side since it will basically be floating on the left screw.. I will probably redo the movable one to be thinner like you suggested. ffice ffice" />Thanks for this awesome idea! |
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#9
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__________________ Gerry Mach3 2010 Screenset http://home.comcast.net/~cncwoodworker/2010.html (Note: The opinions expressed in this post are my own and are not necessarily those of CNCzone and its management) |
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#11
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| Will do Drools. I'll be working on it tonight. Well, maybe... I finally got my G540 today as well so I need to get that installed and configured. I'm also working on mounts for the router, a dust collection system (with lights and all lol). Hopefully I'll have Sunday to knock a bunch of it out. |
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#12
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Typically any motor that has a 2 prong plug is double insulated, the 690 has a 3 prong plug, I checked it on one of mine and there is continuity between the housing and the shaft.
__________________ ...He who makes no mistakes makes nothing! ... Tom |
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